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Post Info TOPIC: 283 over heating


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283 over heating


Hi amhaving trouble whit my 283 cu it overheating whay to much .I try taking the thermota out still heating .Am looking for a picture to see where the water flows in the block today i remove the dom and looks like there is no water in the midle bores the one that pass under the carb but am not shure if water goes in that one .Am wondering if the head gasket are not the good ones and some of the water hold are block .
When the car runs i look in the rad and see the water flows pretty fast am realy buzzel .also the back holes that run in the dom look dry .
Any help would be good thanks

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I suggest checking the thermostat. A lot of people like to run a low rated thermostat such as 160 degrees but all that does is allow coolant  to be pushed quickly through the engine without allowing the coolant to disapate heat. Look at the GM Canada recommended temperature rating and make sure you have that.

Second make sure you have a fan shroud, the covering over the fan and around the radiator. This must be there in order to have proper cooling.



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Ray White, Toronto ON

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Change the water pump because it's bypassing the motor, check the hoses for pinching, and check for white smoke out of the exhaust. The last one is the head gasket because it will get hot if the head gasket burned from a water jacket into the combustion chamber. White smoke and a antifreeze smell at the tail pipes will indicate that water is getting into the combustion area. You probably didn't change the antifreeze and it gets acidic which attacks the head gasket. Mark sure you flush it.

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Thanks Guys Am going to get the heads off just to make shure and for my own peace of mind i replit the motor my self so i have to check it out .
Does any one have a picture of a 283 in a 65 whit a fan shourd .I hade a 6 in the car before now i have a 283cu so id like to see what am going to look for if anyone has a spare one an like to sell it let me no thanks .Rene

One  more thing how many blade shode the fan have the one i have only 4 blade is that good or shode i get one whit more blades and  how many blade

-- Edited by 65acadiantoplist on Tuesday 21st of April 2009 04:45:32 PM

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I'm not sure what "today i remove the dom" means, but here's a number things to think about.  
- You haven't indicated if this is a recently rebuilt motor or if you've had it for a while. 
- Many things effect engine temperature, including initial spark timing.  Check your timing, and maybe baseline it at say 6 degrees BTDC.    Is the car running lean?  That can effect engine temp.
- What's the condition of the radiator?  Is it plugged up? 
- Verify your upper and lower radiator hoses are not kinked.  (the lower hose should have a spring inside it so it doesn't cave in).   
- To verify you don't have a airlock in the cooling system, drain the radiator, and disconnect a heater hose where it goes into the intake manifold.  Fill the rad, and you should feel air coming out of the heater hose fitting on the intake.  Just be careful not to fill the rad too much before replacing the heater hose or you'll have coolant running out of that fitting.  
- You've also indicated you removed the thermostat, if you reinstall maybe go with a 180 degree one.


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odds are the radiator is plugged. run the engine up to 'temp' run your hand over the core (engine off of course), it should feel almost uniformly hot/warm from top to bottom. if flow is restricted it'll feel much cooler in the lower half.

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I would sure check the air lock situation. I've had that happen a couple times on 2 different engines after they had work done on them and we had filled them up with coolant. It sometimes isn't thought of but it will sure shut you down. At this time of the year if that rad was keeping your six cool it should keep your 8 cool too but you'll probably want to put in the spacer section so your rad gets closer to your engine as the 8 is shorter than your 6. Good luck.

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Jerel


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65acadiantoplist wrote:

Does any one have a picture of a 283 in a 65 whit a fan shourd .I hade a 6 in the car before now i have a 283cu so id like to see what am going to look for if anyone has a spare one an like to sell it let me no thanks .Rene

One  more thing how many blade shode the fan have the one i have only 4 blade is that good or shode i get one whit more blades and  how many blade


Here is a link to show the shroud:  http://www.ecklerschevelle.com/Prod_Views.asp?pf_id=608453 
They are reproduced so easy to buy, about $70.

4 blades would be what was originally on the engine.

 



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Ray White, Toronto ON

1973 LeMans 454 "Astro-Jet"

Built March 9, 1973 - Oshawa ON

1993 Corvette Convertible LT 1

Built January 10, 1993 - Bowling Green Kentucky 

 




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Did you just rebuild the engine and put it back in the car recently?

Silly question, but gotta ask. Is the fan blade on correctly?

Timing is correct?

Fan belt is tight?

What temperature is it running?

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also ensure the radiator cap is the proper one, and working correctly.  We had a guy in our club who put a V8 into his early 50's car, and was still running a 7lb rad cap.  He said it would puke out coolant all the time. 

Proper cap should be a 15 lb.  AC Delco model was an RC15, but is now replaced with a RCxx  (I can't remember, I want to say RC23, but an AC Delco dealer should be able to help you as they'll have the cross-up number from RC15)  New rad cap is about $10.

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Leo


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65acadiantoplist wrote:

Hi amhaving trouble whit my 283 cu it overheating whay to much .I try taking the thermota out still heating .Am looking for a picture to see where the water flows in the block today i remove the dom and looks like there is no water in the midle bores the one that pass under the carb but am not shure if water goes in that one .Am wondering if the head gasket are not the good ones and some of the water hold are block .
When the car runs i look in the rad and see the water flows pretty fast am realy buzzel .also the back holes that run in the dom look dry .
Any help would be good thanks




Hi Rene. Sorry to hear about your over-heating problem. I have a '67 Beaumont SD
with a big block and had the same problem for the 1st two years I had the car. I figured like you if you don't ask. I requested help also on a different site and got tons of suggestions. I was determined to get rid of this problem so I tried most of the suggestions that made sense. I ended up spending $2000.00 trying to cool the car and nothing worked. At the end of the 2nd season, there was a slight knock in the engine when idleing, so I decided to get it looked at during the winter months. I decided to do a complete engine rebuild and make a few minor improvements while the motor was apart. In the process we found the cause of the over-heating. Water circulation was being restricted. The holes in the block and the heads were about 2" square (about) One of the holes in the block had slag in it closing the hole to about 1/4 inch in diameter. According to the mechanic it was a build of slag right from G.M. when built. The motor was put back together and I have been driving it for 3 seasons, this will be my fourth, trouble free. I run down the highway now at approx. 180 degrees instead of 195. I use to stop at a red light and it would jump up to 210 / 215, and if I got caught thru. a second light because of heavy traffic it would jump up to 225 / 230. Now I stop at railroad crossings and even cruise at Woodward and it climbs to 200 degrees Max.
Hope this helps.
Leo

 



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Thanks againg guy .The head are of and every ting look ok .I when to the auto parts store to get some new gasket they told me 283 and 350 dont have the same gasket i look it up and the look the same i will ne today because am getting the new one that are for 283 .Tonight am going to get it all back together the look at some other option .The rad look pretty dirty .Am no shure if i have the corect setup for the fan i have a space about 6 inch long to get the fan closer to the rad the fan is about 2-3 inch from the rad if any one has a pic of a 65 whit a 283 that would help me am going to get some pic of my set up and post them latter today.

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1965-chevrolet-chevelle-malibu-ss-hardtop-coupe-6.jpg
This is a Chevelle SS

-- Edited by 73SC on Wednesday 22nd of April 2009 02:40:32 PM

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1973 LeMans 454 "Astro-Jet"

Built March 9, 1973 - Oshawa ON

1993 Corvette Convertible LT 1

Built January 10, 1993 - Bowling Green Kentucky 

 




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65acadiantoplist wrote:
.Am no shure if i have the corect setup for the fan i have a space about 6 inch long to get the fan closer to the rad the fan is about 2-3 inch from the rad if any one has a pic of a 65 whit a 283 that would help me am going to get some pic of my set up and post them latter today.

When I replaced the 40 yr old waterpump, the dealer asked me what engine?  Reason is that the shaft holding the fan has different lengths so that you must fit the right one to get the fan running inside the shroud.  I suspect the same applies to V8 CID!

 



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Hello again did not get to work on the car last night but will tonight need more info. the 4 blade is the good one for this car wright ,

is there any spacer between the rad and the rad suport

how far is the blade from the rad

are the 2 hose on the same side passenger side or the upper hose on the drive side and the lower hose on the passenger side

Any help is good thanks

I can get a new fan sroud they are about 100.00$

-- Edited by 65acadiantoplist on Friday 24th of April 2009 02:34:24 PM

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Hi any one whit this info for me

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Is there a way you can post a picture of your setup as it is right now? That may trigger some ideas.

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The spacer you need for that car is for a V-8 car. A 6cyl rad is smaller and doesn't use a spacer. I will post a add tonight with both of your options. I have never seen a fan shroud on any 65 beamont. None of my cars have it. 12 Cars. The post will be 65 Beaumont fan,rad, spacer set-up.

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this is a pic of what i have thanks for the pic

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Hmm, ok, can't see anything obvious.

Fan is not backwards, that happens.

The fan looks to be close enough to the rad.

Fan belt is tight?

The lower hose isn't collapsing, is it? Does it have the spring (coil) inside it?

Is there anything that has been replaced recently and the problem happened to start after that?

It seems like this is going to be something simple and obvious. I just can't guess what it is...

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What temperature is your car running?
Where is the sender?
Is the guage accurate?

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I dont have a gauge just the light ,the sending unit is on the dome right beside the upper hose outlit .The car has about 300 hundre mile on it it sill new when i just go for a small drive it overheat .Am going to get a new rad cap and try that .
The motor came out a a 64 impale or chevy.The rad is 24inch by 18inch it was used whit that motor.
I clean out the rad today it was pretty clean ,Am going to try a fan whit more blade also am not going to stop till i get it fix .
Got every thing back togeter and starded the motor .

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Does your light come on?
Does anti-freeze come out of the overflow?




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65acadiantoplist wrote:

this is a pic of what i have thanks for the pic



This is in another thread, but you are missing the radiator spacer between the rad and the craddle.  Also your fan spacer block will then be too long.
It looks to me like your fan is way to far back from the rad, even with the rediculusly long spacer.
See other thread for pics of the rad spacer.

 



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Yes the light comes on and it does over floe

Am using the same set up that was in the 64 chevy i dont have a space between the rad and rad suporte the fan is about 3 to 4 inch from the rad

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