yep, Cross Canada is your bist bet

thank you 427  carl , i did  check these guys out  online  and the catalogue link  i had did not specify  they  had a front  and rear  floor pan ( combination F R ) available. I want to install this type  in order to cover the under seat  portion  of the floor , wich has a little rust.

i will call them  to find  out

I also need the deck  that goes behind  the rear seat  of the car

and the wheather strip  to go arround the doors ( 2 d  post model )

also  a hood  without traps  ( not a fiberglass hood )

427carl wrote:

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They(CROSS CANADA) will have the hood and rear deck area...

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great  i ordered   all my  parts  two  full floor pans  L and R  also  two  seat pans   and the brace  under  ( pretty  steap  180.00)  also  one toe  board (  Firewall ext. drivers side )

also  one rear bumper ( mine was bent  on the ends )   and the  trunk  wheaterstrip

now i must find  a hood  ( standard hood with no traps ) and the  door wheathersrip  ( sedan  model )

possibly   a trunk   floor  (  side parts )

now  i have to finsh  the cutting  in the floor boards  et sand  blast   a bit  and then  find  a good  welder  !!!!

is this part number for  a post car  ????

I look at this peice and wonder, should I used the patch floor panals and save as much http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1964-1965-1966-1967-Chevelle-Malibu-Full-Floor-Pan_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3c9c3233fcQQitemZ260318573564QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesoriginal metal or go to the factory joints and replace the whole thing?

I have looked at the full floor for the Acadian/Novas with 4 speed hump and bucket seat mounts and thought that is the way to go. Sand blasting the floors will show what is left and from there I will decide what way to go.

well here  is  my  story .............

my  Beaumont  has rust  at the 4  foot sections  , also  some pin holes over de cross braces, so when i ordered  the front to rear  floor pans  , the idea  was to cover that area  to make it solid,

my question  is  how much  do i cut  , ( i dont think cutting  the  whole  area which the complete pan is about  to be welded ) I did cut  all the  rust spots  but there is stil the pin holes in question  that are by the brace area,

is it best to sand blast this pins hole area  or remove ALL  rusted metal  all over even the pin holes  ??? 
there is also  a bit of rust  on the back passenger wall of the body  ( that wall is where the window crank  assembly  is bolted , just by the rear inner fender ))
i have also one toe board  on the drivers side  to be changed  ( actually  there is about 4 inches by   5  )  that has been   cut due to  rust,  just under  the dim switch.

it does look  a bit  complicated to work arround this area  due to the steering  column and pedal linkage  and  cables.

my  other weak  spot  is the  seat pans  wich  will be both changed  including  the brace ( is this brace ment  to be welded to the frame ??  it  looks  that way )
so after i weld the brace  i will weld both seat pans  in place  , i hope  these  pans  have  a bent  area  to be welded  on the vertical part  between  the seat pan  and floor pan  , i have rust just on the bend  on the edge of that wall  part between the seat and  floor pan !!!!


i did consider  a full pan  but getting  that thing in there  when the frame  is not comming  off  is next to impossible.......

if any one wants to give me anny hints  of any  kind  , dont be shy

to your  demand  i can post pictures of the floor

my last concern   is a weak spot  by  the safety belt bolts  just on top of the tunnel  at the far end  by the back seat  , there is ruste there , and  it will have to be reinforced

it is like  a crack  and when i step  over  the tunnel  i could  feel  a slight  spring  in the tunnel  , but vey weak .

well thats it  , next step  will be the  trunk area  that might  need a pan  or two , once i remove  the gas tank  i will be able to decide.

i did send  a  e mail to this guy  once   and he never replied

i will try  again  thanks

meaning.........you  did  cut out the whole  pin hole area  ????

Carl  , i will try  to take pictures  to see if they   come  out nice  and  will post them  here to have some advice

by  we  share the same idea  , what ever rust in place has to be  ELIMINATED  and  cut.

what ever surface  rust that remains  can be sand blasted  our  covered  with rust treatment  ( rust nutraliser )   if my term  is right !!