i will put the manual choke back on and go from there. Its just weird that about a month ago it would start and idle no problem, but now it wont? Could the warmer weather affect it that much?
It's quite likely that the problems started when the weather warmed up. The thermostat coil can be in almost any position if it doesn't have the hot air from the exhaust manifold tube.
One other thing to consider is the heat riser valve.,,. that you had to remove in order to install the headers. The heat riser restricts the exhaust to push hot gas through the intake passage to warm the carb when it's cold. If the heat riser isn't there,... it just takes longer for the engine to run smooth. It shouldn't be a problem after it warms up though.
These same choke related issue would exist even if you went to 4 BBL. Unless of course you stay with manual choke.
Let us know how it's running after the manual choke is re-installed.
-- Edited by 64 Hard Top on Monday 12th of April 2010 10:17:11 PM
and if you don't want to run a cable out for a manual choke , you could retro it to an electric choke, just need acc. power to it. They use a bi metal element that brings the choke off in a set time. set it and forget it.
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later...rog
AADD supporting member !!
I'm a collector...not a builder!!Located in sunny central Saskatchewan at the lakehead!
I heard that electric choke system works very nice. I know of a few guys that mentioned it exactly as you described., although I've never done it myself. They say it works perfect. Just set it and forget it ,.. like you said. Do you know where that electric choke unit can be purchased? Or can you adapt one from a different carb? It just needs a power lead from acc,.. right ??
I prefer to use a keyed power source for the choke otherwise you could be supplying constant power. At least that's how I set up mine. Electric choke works like a charm.
ive been listening to you guys for a few days. Dont knock the four barrels, compared to the twos they give better gas miliage and are more progressive. the standard equal bore GM carb can easily get 25 mpg with the right tunning and jets with a 2brl 20 mpg on a good day and the carters with tunning 27 to 30 on a hipo 327. I never leave any carbs in stock form if you no what to do all carbs can be improved they all come set rich.
But seeing as you posted a 25 MPG rating on a GM straight bore,.....I'm genuinely interested. Was it a 283 that you were running 25 mpg? I know some mid 80s 305s with a Quadrajet and a 4 spd overdrive that get between 22-28 mpg on the highway. But I've never heard of anyone getting that kind of milage on a 283,.. regardless of configuration. What type of engine did you test your carb on? Do you have a carb # which you recommend? What are the jetting modifications which you make? Are there any other mods which you do to the carb? I've read other forums of guys trying to squeeze the old 283 for more mpg ,.. but none of them were hugely successful.
I think most of us agree ,.. that overall,.. 4 BBLS are better on fuel than 2 BBLS. Depending on how you drive of course
I won't knock either but my expereince with 2 bbls being switched to 4bbls is basically what 64 Hard top said. A Rochester 2 bbl general has a CFM rating around 575 cfm, that is adequate on a 283 and is even adequate on a 350. Plenty of guys run 600 cfm 4bbls on 350's. So switching to a 4bbl from a 2bbl often means less low end acceleration. Once the back two barrels kick in at high speed the performance gains can be realized but really how often do you drop the hammer on the highway in these old bombs. For cruising to and from the odd show a proper running 2bbl shoud be fine.
I'm not sure which brain I was using when I mentioned the choke coil for a 59! Of course, you are correct about the heat tube.
Yes, I guess electric would be the way to go in his case. If you wish to get fancy doing that you could wire it the way some GM electric chokes were wired, through the oil pressure sending unit. That way, it only warms the coil if you have oil pressure. The idea behind that is if you start your engine, walk away and it happens to stall, if the choke has power from the key the coil warms up even if the car is not running. If the car stalls and it's wired through the oil pressure switch, the choke coil loses it's power and only gets heated once you return and re-start the engine.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
I saw the other posts about the elctric choke conversion. So I did some research to find one. It sounds like a really good solution. And cheap at that. And you're lucky,.. the electric choke kit works on your carb model 2GC!
Here is the link if you want to check it out. It's only $33.50
THIS IS A COMPLETE ELECTRIC CHOKE KIT TO CONVERT YOUR CURRENT HOT AIR, CLIMATIC, OR AUTOMATIC CHOKE TO ELECTRIC. THIS KIT IS FOR ROCHESTER ROCHESTER 2 BBLS 2GC. THIS KITS COME WITH THE ELECTRIC STAT, PIGTAIL CONNECTOR, VACUUM CAP, THE WING NUTS AND SCREWS FOR INSTALLATION AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. THIS IS A VERY SIMPLY CONVERSION AND WILL DEFINITELY HELP WITH COLD WEATHER STARTS. THIS CHOKE MUST BE CONNECTED TO A 12 VOLT
Knock might have been a strong word but i still remember the big economy kick in the late 70 early 80s. guys were ripping these cars appart claiming that two barrels are better than four. as for modifications its simple, your saying that the two barrels flow about 575 or so cfm the four barrels cater and rodchester dont flow anymore than that at full tilt but its better distributed. the carbs get a normal rebuild but are blueprinted and polished. jets for the rodchesters can beremoved from the two barrells depending on size the carters can be purchased over the counter stock jets are too rich. as for overdrives and low performance motors dont run them. i only run 10.7 to 11.5 to one compression 327 with oldshcool 350 350hp cams, weight is 4000pounds with no driver gearing is 3.31. i just finished buiding and engine for my truck using this recipit im useing the small 283 heads ported 194 160 valves, behive springs rodes lifter 350cam flattop two ibrow piston and a messured 10.7 to 1 on a 30 over327, 25mpg with only 740 miles on the engine its not even close to being broken in yet or leaned out. the engine i just pulled out of the wagon had 11.5 to 1 8hg of vacum big heads and a documented 375hp at the rear wheels 27mpg with over 200 000 miles that i know about i couldnt even run a vacume advance, it can be done.
-- Edited by 65wagon on Tuesday 13th of April 2010 05:48:34 PM
thanks for all the responses and the offers on the intakes. I think first i will put the manual choke back on and fool around with it, and if that doesent work, electric choke it is. Now...heres another somewhat related question... do you think that if i drove the 59 down to mexico, would it be easy to get parts to use on the 283, or should I really look into getting a 350 or 305. Would heads from a 81 chevy 305 fit on a 283? or a fuel pump, etc. ?
I don't know about shipping parts into Mexico. I also don't know the availability of parts IN Mexico. As far as switching to a 305 or 350 ,.... you're no better or worse off than with the 283. Parts availability is generally good for all small blocks including 305,350 and 283. The heads from a 81 305 would fit if you need them.
As precautions,. if I was headed to live in Mexico with small block powered car.,... If the engine is otherwise in good condition (doesn't use oil or very little and runs quiet) ,.. I'd buy a few parts to take along just in case. A water pump, fuel pump, starter drive and solenoid.,, and timing chain set. All these parts would run no more than $175.00. And then if you need them suddenly ,.. you've got em. Beyond that ,.. the 283 would would give you just as reliable miles as a 1990 small block. Some would say ,.. even better. I've heard the phrase from old timers ,... "you can't kill a 283"!. Many say it's the most reliable small block ever made!
So if you have your choke problems sorted out before you leave.,.. with just a few extra parts ,.. you'd be in good shape.
And you may want to take your hubcaps off at the Mexican boarder LOL!
Anyone else have any thoughts for 59poncho?
-- Edited by 64 Hard Top on Wednesday 14th of April 2010 11:18:38 PM
I forgot to ask ,... After you're living in Mexico ,..... you'd probably put up some of your CP friends from Canada if they come out for a visit..,..right?
-- Edited by 64 Hard Top on Thursday 15th of April 2010 12:42:36 AM
of course any Cp members are more than welcome. Ive heard the same thing "you cant kill a 283" so im not too worried. I do need to swap out the tranny though, i think it would be nicer on the highway with some more gears!!?? Thanks for the imput, and im now off to play with the carb, its too nice to be inside right now.
its not a problem with the choke i think, even with the manual on what happens is that when i press on the gas, the fast idle cam drops down, even if i hold the choke open by hand the cam drops and therefore not enough idle. I dont now how to adjust it. I should try and make a little video because i really dont know how to explain it. aarrrhhh LOL!!
does anyone know if there is any other differance between 195 hp283 and a 220hp 283, other then the carb?
With respect to the 1964 L77s i presume??????
Also they have a Harmonic balancer with rubber ring(same as a 327) Also they have a Clutch fan(same as a 327) And dual exhuast like Carl said. and they use a Rochester 4GC
P.S. with regard to the talk of gas milage:
I have a 220 HP L77 in my chevelle. Totally stock setup with a Th350 trans and 3:08 gears. With 225/75 14 tires.
Cruises at hwy speeds of 65-70 MPH at about 2900 RPM and 24 MPG out of the old 283.
The secondarys are pretty small on a 4gc, so i dont really notice the secondarys kick in like you would on a q-jet tho.
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Beaumontguru
MY BEAUMONT HAS 4 STUDDED TIRES AND 2 BLOCKHEATERS......AND LOTS OF OIL UNDERNEATH. The other one has a longer roof.
does anyone know if there is any other differance between 195 hp283 and a 220hp 283, other then the carb?
With respect to the 1964 L77s i presume??????
Also they have a Harmonic balancer with rubber ring(same as a 327) Also they have a Clutch fan(same as a 327) And dual exhuast like Carl said. and they use a Rochester 4GC
P.S. with regard to the talk of gas milage:
I have a 220 HP L77 in my chevelle. Totally stock setup with a Th350 trans and 3:08 gears. With 225/75 14 tires.
Cruises at hwy speeds of 65-70 MPH at about 2900 RPM and 24 MPG out of the old 283.
The secondarys are pretty small on a 4gc, so i dont really notice the secondarys kick in like you would on a q-jet tho.
having said that, and alot of opinions on the "no differance " with 2 barrel and 4 barrel carb. Would it be fair to think that the dual exhaust is what makes the main HP gain?
you wanted to know what i run for jets i found 54 jets primary and 59 secondary on the rodchester work well on the automatic 327 ususal duals 3.36 90000 mile on motor wagon. the carter im gona have to check and post later,
