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Post Info TOPIC: Exhaust Stud broken - help
TDS


Veteran Member

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Exhaust Stud broken - help


Okay, I should have known better..

After a few nice trips the exhaust headerpiper was getting loose at the manifold on my 261".

The nut felt like it could be turned and crack I broke the front one of the 2 studs.

The studs are very rusted and the treads gone. There is stil sting ½" of the stud sticking out.

I need some good advice from you.

 

I can proberly get room drill the rest out from below without taking the hole manifold of the engine.

 

I have tried to find new studs on ebay but I will need some help to get the right one.

Can someone help me with a link?.

 

Is another way to deal with it to dril a oversized hole and use a standard hardend bolt?.

  



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A Poncho Legend!

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Do you have access to a welder? Is there room to get in there with one? If so, weld a nut on the broken stud end and try to turn it out that way. It might take a few trys, but eventually it should work.



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.

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Poncho Master!

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Pontiacanada wrote:

Do you have access to a welder? Is there room to get in there with one? If so, weld a nut on the broken stud end and try to turn it out that way. It might take a few trys, but eventually it should work.


          x2



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A Poncho Legend!

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Some Heat and a "stud remover" will work AS well     



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Guru

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TDS wrote:

 

I have tried to find new studs on ebay but I will need some help to get the right one. 

Is another way to deal with it to dril a oversized hole and use a standard hardend bolt?.  


 Torben

If memory serves me right these are the regular 3/8 universal studs, I will check my parts book at work, just depends on the lenght, they are discontinued from GM but I have some new ones here at home, pm me your address and i'll send them off to you.

Gerry



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1967 Beaumont Custom

Canadian Poncho Supporting Member



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No question, the best way is to heat the manifold red hot with a torch and either have welded at nut on to the stud that is sticking out, or grab it with a vise grip. I just did 5-6 of them a week ago in a pair of manifolds. I had the manifold glowing right around the stud and it came right out easily, each one.

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1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars (now converted to a "factory" 4 speed)



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Heat is your best friend when it comes to rust as the others said heat it up red hot and it should come right out. I have had to heat dolts 2-3 times before they break loose. Get it hot and give it a shot of WD or some thing like that then reheat it and it will come right out with a pair of visegrips. When I was taking the 61 apart I did not break a singe bolt when using this method.

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Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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Everything thats been said here & by torch they are refering to Oxy- Acetalyne!!!!. A propane hand held will do nothing but waste propane & expand your vocabulary to BAD words!!!!

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A Poncho Legend!

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Good point Pete. Yes, it has to be enough heat to make the manifold glow orange.


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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles 

1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars (now converted to a "factory" 4 speed)



A Poncho Legend!

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Carl Stevenson wrote:

Good point Pete. Yes, it has to be enough heat to make the manifold glow orange.


 Yes, heat the manifold around the stud, not the stud itself.



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.

TDS


Veteran Member

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Perfect - thanks!

I found a old stud kit 3/8 x 2.5" with brass nuts on ebay.

Lots of heat and WD40..

I will let you know how it went, in a weeks when the parts are here.

For now I welded a 8 mm bolt with nut on the end of the stud so I can drive the car

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