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Post Info TOPIC: Brake line nut problem


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Brake line nut problem


I've decided to change my rear brake cylinder, I've managed to loosen the bolts to the old cylinder but the bolt attaching

The break line won't budge and I'm afraid I might strip it.It's already getting close. I'm turning it in the same direction as when I loosened  the cylinder bolts so I assume it would be the same way.

I've sprayed some de greaser and let it sit over night but still no go.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. 



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Uber Guru

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I always heat it up with a propane torch before I attempt to undo. Get it nice and hot and turns out easy. And it always good if you use a line wrench on it as well.

 

Ian



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Thanks Ian, that's a great suggestions. I'm going to try that. 

I appreciate you responding.

Off to the garage!

Again.



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Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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Sometimes the flare nut is corroded onto the brake cylinder, and other times it's corroded onto the brake line.  If the latter, once you get the flare nut to turn, you may end up twisting the line.  I had all sorts of challenges when I did the rear brakes on the 454 Laurentian, and finally ordered new lines.



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i've also used a pair of vice grips over the line wrench.

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sTevE

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Even though I had a good set of Craftsman flare nut wrenches, the jaws would open on a tight nut and strip the nut.  I finally bought a used set of Snap-On, they are way better quality.



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A Poncho Legend!

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Yes, the guys at work have told me that. They also say that Mac flare nut wrenches are as good.

I have some cheaper Jet wrenches and same as Steve, a Vise Grip on the wrench is required on a stubborn flare nut.

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Thanks guys. Hope I won't have to replace the brake lines on this one. That will be a whole different story.

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A Poncho Legend!

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Lotsa heat on the nut is the secret. However, it also means you HAVE to replace the cylinder wherever you do that on the nut because the chances are pretty much 100% that you will ruin the seal in the cylinder if it wasn't before. But you don't really ever need to remove that nut unless you are changing the cylinder anyway.

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1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars (now converted to a "factory" 4 speed)



Poncho Master!

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Vise grip makes a special wrench that does not mark up the nut as well-I use it often-great tool.The flare nut wrenches still strip the nuts no matter what brand you have

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Im in the process of changing my break cylinder and I can't take off the nut from the break line.I've. Wd40 it, I've heated it and now I've stripped it. So now I guess I have to replace the break line.I'm hoping the nut on the other end won't give me as much trouble or I'm going to have to replace the whole system.The break lines at partsource are all straight pieces,
So I'm assuming I'm going to have to bend them without kinking the line.
Any tips or guidance on the procedure?
Thanks for your help.

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bragabuster wrote:

Im in the process of changing my break cylinder and I can't take off the nut from the break line.I've. Wd40 it, I've heated it and now I've stripped it. So now I guess I have to replace the break line.I'm hoping the nut on the other end won't give me as much trouble or I'm going to have to replace the whole system.The break lines at partsource are all straight pieces,
So I'm assuming I'm going to have to bend them without kinking the line.
Any tips or guidance on the procedure?
Thanks for your help.


 you can order pre bent lines



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Nothing like buying, bent parts biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin



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70 SS ACADIAN wrote:
 you can order pre bent lines

That's the route I ended up going on the 454 Laurentian.  I bought new straight lines, and was going to bend them as I've had success doing fuel lines.  But I couldn't get the angles right, and the small lines are tough to double flare properly, so I just ordered new pre-bent lines. 



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Ok here is where I'm at now. I've cut the break line and taken out the old break cylinder.
I purchased a 3/16"x 8" line and a 3/16 compression union, I brought the old line to compare the size ( partsource was
No help) and I'm not sure if I got the right one.
As you can see in the picture the flare nut doesn't screw in all the way but it fits snug. Not sure if that's an issue.
Can I get some insight on this situation?
Thanks guys.



-- Edited by bragabuster on Friday 9th of May 2014 06:43:54 PM

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Uber Guru

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Well you tried plan A and it did not work. Some times that just the way it is. Now plan B. Replace the whole line. I would not use a compression fitting. I think that would not pass inspection if you went that route. The replacement lines you get now do have way more thread on them than the stock one's so no big deal if thread is showing.

 

Ian



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Thanks Ian

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Addicted!

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As Ian said , it will not pass inspection and is not a correct repair for brake lines. Replace the complete line. If you do not have a flare kit buy a pre flared line and use your old line as a pattern. Clip the old line at the flare nut and use a 6 point socket to remove the nut from the flex line. Barry

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Thanks for the help guys.

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IMG_00001086.jpg

IMG_00001087.jpg

license_20140509192045_55686.jpg

 



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Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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rule of thumb for compression fittings.... never use a fitting softer than the tubing...wink



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later...rog

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I'm a collector...not a builder!!Located in sunny central Saskatchewan at the lakehead!


Poncho Master!

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You can use a simple pulley to bend brake lines... Here's a video.  I've used a vee-belt pulley from an alternator and that seemed to work.  You need to make sure the brake line stays tight against the pulley - pull on both ends like you're trying to stretch it around the pulley.   Go slow and bend a little at a time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0uP-GQ_URE

 

You can use a coat hanger or other heavy wire to make a template of what you want it to look like...



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Poncho Master!

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Also, you can get brake steel lines with a spring around them that makes bending much easier if you have any complicated bends to deal with. As stated, never use a compression union on a brake line.

Thanks
Randy

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