GM 60's Doorlocks

Beau 69 · Addicted!

GM 60's Doorlocks

4SPEED427 · A Poncho Legend!

Does everything "feel" normal when you move the lock knob or the key in the lock?

Beau 69 · Addicted!

Carl Stevenson wrote:
Does everything "feel" normal when you move the lock knob or the key in the lock?

No the key does nothing in unlock direction and seems to just stop at lock position. The button on door won't budge, that seems to be the problem.

if the button releases the door can be opened and closed normally with inner and outer handles.

Beaumont4008 · Uber Guru

I know this may sound stupid but did you try a little wd40 in the key hole and lock mechanism to free things up ? Some times thing get a little dry and rusty in there and the tumblers in the lock get stiff and also all those moving parts in the door mechanism. Had a few cars with similar problem that it fixed. But I am sure you already tried this.

Ian

Beau 69 · Addicted!

Beaumont4008 wrote:
I know this may sound stupid but did you try a little wd40 in the key hole and lock mechanism to free things up ? Some times thing get a little dry and rusty in there and the tumblers in the lock get stiff and also all those moving parts in the door mechanism. Had a few cars with similar problem that it fixed. But I am sure you already tried this.

Ian

Yes, that was the remedy the first time this happened, car stored 5 months in Az. locks dried out.

This is a convertible and unfortunately w/o drip rails etc., some rain leaks down window into inner door. Car gets driven.

Looks like the door cards come off, see what it looks like inside. But I'll try prying by hand and thumping door one more time.

Too nice a car for hammer and pry bar.

Thanks L

dcneric · Poncho Master!

I was told by a lock smith, DO NOT USE ANY FORM OF LIQUID LUBRICANT IN THE TUMBLER OF A LOCK! The reason being is that dirt sticks to the lube and seizes the tumblers. Dry graphite only is to be used and is pumped into the key slot and then the key inserted a few times to circulate the graphite. Small tubes of dry graphite are available at locksmith shops and last for a very long time as such a small amount is actually needed.

That said, the lock/latch mechanism lower down in the door frame should be lubricated with lithium grease.

seventy2plus2 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

Th mechanism is fairly straight forward, but I'd say you're needs some lubrication. When I got my 72 GMC, it'd been on a farm for 30+ years, and the key would not turn to lock the doors. I popped the door panels off, lubricated the workings and all is fine.

Sounds to me like you need to do the same, pop your door panels off and take a look at the lock mechanisms and the rods up to the knobs.

Beau 69 · Addicted!

seventy2plus2 wrote:
Th mechanism is fairly straight forward, but I'd say you're needs some lubrication. When I got my 72 GMC, it'd been on a farm for 30+ years, and the key would not turn to lock the doors. I popped the door panels off, lubricated the workings and all is fine.
Sounds to me like you need to do the same, pop your door panels off and take a look at the lock mechanisms and the rods up to the knobs.

Thanks for that, I imagine there is a fair bit of dirt accumulated, I'll visit the locksmith down the street, then take a look inside.

L

Beau 69 · Addicted!

Locks now work perfectly............. lubricant from a co. called Tri-Flow from locksmith, a silicone product, penetrates and lubes, no comments.

Nice to have some security but a 60's convertible really isn't very secure. Nice to have doors working properly. Thanks for contributions to this issue.