Carl , I just discovered this one too.I had a small sample bottle given to me last week   I just finished some bolts an hour ago and they came out great . Parts have to be clean of oil / grease etc , or it does not work . I'm considering buying the pail .

Use full strength muriatic acid,  they come out mint.  Just did a few sets.  You do have to paint them afterwards tho, as they will be fresh bare cast, and will flash rust quickly.  a rinse in baking soda will help, a light wire wheeling on a drill with shine them up to like new and ready for paint will very minimal elbow grease/if any.

I have a large pail full, does 1/2 at a time.  

Muriatic is also way! cheaper than evaporust or metal rescue.   Also muriatic literally lasts forever.  those others turn black right away and are then none effective also need to be in warm temps.  muriatic will work when colder just as good

beaumontguru wrote:

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Use full strength muriatic acid,  they come out mint.  Just did a few sets.  You do have to paint them afterwards tho, as they will be fresh bare cast, and will flash rust quickly.  a rinse in baking soda will help, a light wire wheeling on a drill with shine them up to like new and ready for paint will very minimal elbow grease/if any.

I have a large pail full, does 1/2 at a time.  

Muriatic is also way! cheaper than evaporust or metal rescue.   Also muriatic literally lasts forever.  those others turn black right away and are then none effective also need to be in warm temps.  muriatic will work when colder just as good

-- Edited by beaumontguru on Monday 17th of September 2018 06:55:26 PM

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Wear rubber gloves, eyewear, and a ventilator mask (unless outdoors) when using.

Evapo-rust would cost $$$ to do manifolds. I've used a small bottle of it (I got for free) to do some small rusty tools and they came out good.

Rust Remover Showdown. (worth a watch)

Testing different products to find the best rust remover using identical tests.

Muriatic Acid Rust Removal - Muriatic acid is a form of hydrogen chloride gas.
https://www.hunker.com/12266335/muriatic-acid-rust-removal

Instructions for Use
If you are going to use muriatic acid to remove rust despite the heath risks, dilute it 1 to 10 with water. Work in a well-ventilated space, and wear dark glasses and gloves. Place the diluted water-acid mixture into a spray bottle, and spray it on the rust. Use a brush to scrub off the rust. Then, because of the power of the acid, the material has to be immersed in water to take off the remaining acid. If rust still remains, the process can be repeated. After the rust has been removed and the item dipped in water, the effect of the acid has to be neutralized further by using water and baking soda.

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https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/acid-rust-removal-151941/

There are NO "pros" to using Muriatic Acid (HCl or Hydrochloric Acid) for derusting steel. HCl will deposit Cl ions chemically combined into the steel surface, where they will cause rust forever. No "neutralization" can remove these ions, they can only be removed by electrolysis.

You know how once your car starts to rust from road salt, it seems like no matter what you do, you cannot "kill" the rust? Same Cl ion problem only in that case it is from the NaCl road salt.

Do you want to do that to your mill?

Use Phosphoric Acid or Citric Acid to de-rust steel. Phosphoric Acid is the active ingredient in Naval Jelly. I buy Phosphoric Acid as "Behr Concrete Rust Stain Remover" at Home Despot. If I want something with added surficants, I buy Kano Labs "Ex-Rust" (www.kanolabs.com)

JRR


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I haven't used Muriatic Acid for a few decades now / now that health concerns exist & the acid does need neutralized with water & backing soda.

- to try & kill the etching process

Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer, 1381192, unce - is what I use now on cleaned up metal, as the mild phosphoric acid turns rust pits into a hard black paintable surface.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-unce-Extend-Neutralizer-1381192/dp/B001000VS0  

^^ I buy it at Auto Zone in Port Huron, MI cheap. Can't contaminate the tin, with a used brush exposed to rust. So pour out what will get used up.

When using Evaporust, Metal Rescue, or Krud Kutter etc., if the part isn't completely submerged there will be a black line stain at the liquid line.
Forget about that silly Metal Rescue pic of the rusty blade above the solution and shiny silver underneath because it doesn't show a black line.
Say goodbye to black oxide and phosphate and oil finishes on metal with these products though.
If metal is left in these solutions long term, there's no harm other than blackening of the metal which is fine if you want to make a rusty fastener

look like a fresh finish black one, whereas muriatic acid will dissolve the part.

I've found Metal Rescue blackens the most with extended soaking.