Pedals in and adjusted. Just a tiny bit of play off the bump stop on the clutch pedal, and the same with the brake. Clutch pedal sits higher just as they intended.
Over the years that I had my factory 4 speed 66 Grande Parisienne many guys told me it wasn't a factory 4 speed because the pedals didn't line up correctly!
__________________
1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
How much play should there be off the bump stop? I guess the really important thing is to keep the throwout just off the clutch when running, or suffer a premature bearing failure?
__________________
65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
How much play should there be off the bump stop? I guess the really important thing is to keep the throwout just off the clutch when running, or suffer a premature bearing failure?
Yes, exactly.
I was taught growing up that there should be around an inch of freeplay on the pedal. Others may have different opinions but that has always worked fine for me.
__________________
1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
I originally had maybe just over a inch away from the stop pedal play, and at that point the forward rod nut was only a couple of threads on.
You've got me thinking of reasons why this would have been.
I should add that this thread has pretty much run it's course. I hope everyone enjoyed it a little, and maybe picked up a few pointers for their own conversion.
A big part of these things for me, is chasing the parts and learning how they work, as fun as actually using them!
Short of reporting on how the system actually works on the road, I probably won't post much more... but it's safe to say it's been a really enjoyable project and I'm excited to try it out!
Cheers and thanks to those who posted their own info to it.
__________________
65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
I was looking tonight at pictures of the repro hump. If anyone is looking, it appears there is still no change in the piece of crap aftermarket hump that is offered. Prepare to spend an afternoon reworking it if you buy one.
I was looking tonight at pictures of the repro hump. If anyone is looking, it appears there is still no change in the piece of crap aftermarket hump that is offered. Prepare to spend an afternoon reworking it if you buy one.
i am going to hand the after market one and an my original one off to my metal worker to see if he can rework it or start from scratch
For sure he can rework it. I would still buy one and rework it if I had it to do all over again but the initial thought I had when I took it out of the box was "why did they even bother?"
I had to alter the opening as well, not just the shape. When you get the shape right the opening ends up in the wrong spot. As you can see in this picture the opening is clearly hand-cut and pretty rough.
I was very satisfied with the final result but it took a few hours out of an afternoon to get to that point.
__________________
1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
If someone could reproduce some really accurate ones they probably could get 250 bucks each for them. I chose the McGiver route as I refused to pay 100 bucks for that thing.
__________________
65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
A few years back Jon Krogh from Wisconsin hand built some really nice ones and I think they were around $175 US. It seems to me someone told me or I read it somewhere that he wasn't going to make any more because it was just too much work for the revenue he generated.
He's the same guy who reproduced the bench seat floor shift boot and same deal, only made them a short time and then quit.
__________________
1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
It's a pipe dream yes, but If you were able to machine up a metal dieset (male/female halves, 4 guide posts) the part is small enough that you could probably form it using some 20 gauge Drawing Quality steel. A 40 ton shop hydraulic press might do it. The draw isn't that deep.
Who here has a CNC and some tool and die skills? Kevin has the original we can take a 3D measurement with.
__________________
65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
I'd heard talk about the cheap offshore firewall rod seals splitting/failing very quickly. Well, sure enough mine has.
I'm hearing a little click or ping when I depress the clutch all the way down. Opened the hood to have a peek. Felt down around the boot and discovered it has split completely around the end where it curves inward. This isn't related to the click.
This was a China part sold by Classic Industries, and really seemed to be good quality. Not a big deal and I'm not too worried about leaving it like this for a while, but is there any though as to a part that might last? Did the GM part go out fast as well? Maybe even a different style might be better? More of a pleated bellows kind of thing, or open the hole up more to allow the rod to slide and not bind in the boot.
Just curious, what's the Classic Industries part #? I wasn't able to find one for when I did my 70, and it looks like it could be the same.
I know the firewall contour is the same as a 69, as my 70 block off plate is the same as the plate from the 69 that had the cruise vacuum lines through it.
1967 2dr Biscayne. L36, M40, G80, K05, F41. #'s. 1967 Impala convert. 283, glide. Parked in the garage since 74 and hasn't moved. Soon to be BB 4speed.
