I have never had trouble keeping a 283 cool, that is why I'm surprised. I have run a fan that far from a rad (or farther) and not had issues. Something is missing in this picture....
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
I no i try to look it up on the net but it craze ie give you every thing but what your looking for .Iv been playing in cars for a pit an this never happe to me before so that why am trying to get some fead back which i been getting on this site it great from the ohter members to help out thanks . It also great to chat whit other car guy .
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other cars 1941b Dodge Truck 1935 Ford 3 window coupe 65 Acadian Covertible on going 73 Challenger Ralley
Rene, I asked about the light and the overflow because if it was just overflow it could be that you are overfilling the rad. If it was just the light it could be a faulty sender. Since you have both, I would think that the coolant flow is not correct. In my experience this could be a hose that is collapsing or a water pump that is not working.
I am not real smart when it comes to solving these problems, but I would invest in a guage and spend some time watching the open rad and the guage. I would expect with current temperatures, that you could run the car all day at any speed without overheating.
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1967 Parisienne 2+2 1967 Grande Parisienne
1967 Laurentian 1967 Strato Chief
Remember, "The Government" only has money confiscated from us.
Every thing is new , i rebuit the motor my self it not my first one ,Am going to keep it up tomorow i will keep you posted am shure it some stupit little thing
I did look at the pics i see the rad not the same but it shude work it simpal
-- Edited by 65acadiantoplist on Saturday 25th of April 2009 10:30:18 PM
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other cars 1941b Dodge Truck 1935 Ford 3 window coupe 65 Acadian Covertible on going 73 Challenger Ralley
I'm still confused about what you are referring to when you say "today i remove the dom" or "the sending unit is on the dome". What is the "dom" and "dome" you're referring to?
By reading various strings, some common themes keep coming up: 1. The lower rad hose may be collapsing, does it have a spring inside it to prevent it from collapsing? 2. Have you checked the radiator cap? It may not be allowing the pressure to build appropriately, and it's burping coolant out. Keep in mind the coolant expands as it gets hot. A 15 lb cap should be appropriate. 3. There may be an airlock in the coolant system, you may need to drain the coolant, remove a heater hose or thermostat housing, and fill to that level. That will allow the air to escape. Once you get to that level, replace the hose or thermostat housing, and continue filling. 4. Is there supposed to be a spacer between the radiator support and the radiator? 5. Is there supposed to be a fan shroud?
My observations: 1. What is the initial timing set at? Running retarded from where it should be can cause overheating. 2. I have NEVER seen a fan spacer that long. That just doesn't look right.
Hi when i say dom or dome i meen the intake my spelling is not the best but it ok .
The spacer was on the 64 chevy it the only way i get the fan closer to the rad the car came whit a 6 cyl.
The rad i have in it now came from the 64 it fit good and look fairly new .
The rad cap is 15bl but will get a new one this one look a bit old I found my shop manuel in the manuel it shows a space between the rad and rad suport.whit that space i will not need a long spacer for the fan but i nee to fin one !
Also in the manuel it show the fan shude be closer to the rad .
I donr have a sping in the lower hose and it dont look like it collapsing i will look to get one . Thanks for the info and help
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other cars 1941b Dodge Truck 1935 Ford 3 window coupe 65 Acadian Covertible on going 73 Challenger Ralley
ok got the car runing again today let it run for about 20 minute look like it was going to be ok then it started to oveflo a bit the light did not go on ..Now what am going to get a 5 or 6 blade fan to try that .The fan is 2 inch from the rad in the manuel it said .75 is that 3/4 of and inch that not much. if that dont work am going to get one of does afthermaket fad shroud .The book dont show a shroud for a 65 .
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other cars 1941b Dodge Truck 1935 Ford 3 window coupe 65 Acadian Covertible on going 73 Challenger Ralley
I haven't heard you mention anything about checking for an air lock. It may sound strange to you but it sure sounds like it to me as i mentioned in a previous post. This time of the year that engine should barely overheat with any kind of fan. I'm pretty sure somethings wrong inside and not by the fan. Hope you find it.
yep when i but the antifry in i did it by the thermostac hosing till that was full then finish it by the top of the rad .It sound grazy i also think it shude not over heat at this time of year also.am going to try some other thinks an see.
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other cars 1941b Dodge Truck 1935 Ford 3 window coupe 65 Acadian Covertible on going 73 Challenger Ralley
most of these '60s gm cars did not have shrouds, cooled just fine. my bel air runs cool, no shroud. have the rad checked, most likely plugged after so many years.
It does sound strange that the car would be overheating... others have stated these already, but i'd be sure the timing is good, no airlock, test your thermostat on the stove -they are really crappy these days!, the 4 blade fan isnt great, but should work, if you want to upgrade go to a heavy duty factory clutch fan, flow is the most important element in cooling so make sure your water pump is working fine -test with another one, and that the rad is clean inside and out... get the factory rad spacer.... something sure is strange, without a thermostat and it overheats that quick?...i'm thinking your water pump is not moving water, can you see good flow with the engine running (no thermostat) and the rad cap off??
Your setup should have a spacer that pushes the rad closer to the motor. Big block cars did not have this, only small blocks. Somebody out there should have one. Things to do or check: 1. make sure the thermostat is working, 180 deg. 2. lower rad hose, needs metal coils in it to prevent colapsing. 3. fan needs to be .75 inch from rad. You will need to find a rad spacer that moves the rad closer to the motor. 4. Water pump. Is it new? I have seen older ones not work. The shaft actually turns but the impeller , which is pressed on, slips or does not spin. If you have sufficient flow thru the rad than it is probably OK. Remove the rad and have it tested at a rad shop. Some part of it may be plugged. 5. Pressure test the system. Is the block/ heads cracked? You may be getting cylinder pressure into the system.You mentioned that you replaced the head gaskets. Did you see any comunication between the cylinders? The 'ol 283 usually runs nice and cool, in my younger years around Wpg, ran a 400HP one and never had any cooling issues. Hope you find the cause!
Hi i need to no what size is the spacer that goes between the rad an the rad suport is it 2 ich 3 inch can someone that has on on they car help me whit this . am trying to get the original set up . Thanks Rene
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other cars 1941b Dodge Truck 1935 Ford 3 window coupe 65 Acadian Covertible on going 73 Challenger Ralley
I am pretty sure i have a spacer, shipping might be expencive. They are pretty hard to find as they were only on V8 a-body cars from 64-67. Where are you from. im in Wpg.
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Beaumontguru
MY BEAUMONT HAS 4 STUDDED TIRES AND 2 BLOCKHEATERS......AND LOTS OF OIL UNDERNEATH. The other one has a longer roof.
I have the spacer for my 65 hanging on the garage wall at home. I can check later and let you know
I have not read all the posts so this just might be a repeat. Have you got your timing set properly? If it is running too retarded the engine will run hot. Is the fuel mixture too lean?, that can cause hot running issues also Jerry
-- Edited by JerryA on Friday 1st of May 2009 02:04:22 PM
I finally read most of the posts here and there are a lot of good suggestions. Have you verified the actual coolant temp. with a mech guage? I would try the simple things first that have been mentioned. It could possibly be an air lock. Try removing the thermostat housing and then fill it with coolant. That should force any air in the block out. A shroud of some kind will make a world of difference in the cooling. When I first built the 406ci for mine I had some cooling issues when idling in traffic on hot days. I built a metal shroud and tried it. After that I could idle all day in hot weather with no problem. I have since gone with an electric fan from a Taurus and built my own housing(shroud) A 283 should really have little problem cooling. I haven't played with a stock 283 in years and I know the 4 degrees initial timing is specified for it from the factory but I bet it would run better at about 14-16 degrees initial. Always make sure your total does not exceed 34-36 though. Do you have vacuum connected to your distributor? Adding some vacuum advance can make the engine run better and cool better. Added manifold vacuum to the distributor will bring your initial timing up which could also help. A lot of good suggestions here from the members. I would keep trying them all one at a time and see if you can cure your issues,
This is all a part of these old cars. This is what is supposed to make it fun, right?
-- Edited by JerryA on Saturday 2nd of May 2009 08:25:31 AM
thanks for the info know i no what to look for . Yes try almos every thing in this post, that why am looking to get the fan closer to the rad it at 2 1/2 inch from the rad so am trying to get the original set up for the rad.Whit the corect spacer i can take the long fan spacer i have on it ,an will get a afther market fan shroud also that will help every little bit helps .thanks again Rene
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other cars 1941b Dodge Truck 1935 Ford 3 window coupe 65 Acadian Covertible on going 73 Challenger Ralley
