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Post Info TOPIC: cleaning off the dust


Guru

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RE: cleaning off the dust


Where you from?

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Im back new shop is kicking A$$

 



Veteran Member

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TINY wrote:

Where you from?



Tri - cities  B.C.   is  home  for  the last  10 years.

 



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Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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would you like to add it to our registry?

http://canadianponcho.activeboard.com/index.spark?aBID=118110&p=3&topicID=27761937

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Uber Guru

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30 plus posts to this thread in less than 6 hours. Yeah, I'd say the group appreciates the mods...

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"So when you spot violence, or bigotry, or intolerance or fear or just garden-variety hatred or ignorance, just look it in the eye and think... The good outnumber you, and we always will."  Patton Oswalt



Poncho Master!

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Welcome ! Great looking race car, Love the body style !

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pontorquer wrote:

Welcome ! Great looking race car, Love the body style !




Thankyou,  Lol ,   I  have  yet to  make  it out to  the  track  in  this  .   Mission  Friday  night street drags  are only  1/2 hr  from  here.   Its  built safe enough  to avoid  getting sent home  by the  track  officials. It's  been  a  lack of  time  thing  and  now  having to  rebuild the rear suspension .  I am  aiming to  post up  some  time  slips  on  the forum  next  year.wink



-- Edited by BBB-66-SD on Saturday 5th of December 2009 12:57:02 AM

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Poncho Master!

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HI warm welcome from Delta not far from you. I would love to give you a run in my 68 Beaumont 377 Stoker friday nights at mission are great hope to see you around!!
Kevin

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Poncho Master!

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BBB-66-SD wrote:

TINY wrote:

Where you from?



Tri - cities  B.C.   is  home  for  the last  10 years.

 

I had the green 69 gto rag hammering around surrey about 6 years ago.


 



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Poncho Master!

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I never ran into you with my Beaumont on my cruises up and down King George. Did that for a while looking for something too run, had alot of brown mustang's you know what I mean!!

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lueger68 wrote:

I never ran into you with my Beaumont on my cruises up and down King George. Did that for a while looking for something too run, had alot of brown mustang's you know what I mean!!



I will  probably  have  it ready   for   some  'cruising'  next  year  .      I am  glad  I live  fairly close  to  the track,  due  to  the  fact  that  its  hard  to  resist mashing  the  throttle  on  the  street.   Big  Buicks  are fairly  loud running  through 3"  pipes  and  magnaflow  mufflers.biggrin
At  the right time of  evening  it's  alot  of  fun,  but  getting  caught  in  the lower mainland  daily traffic  is  not  for  me .

 



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Addicted!

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Welcome! Pro Street is alive and wll in Canada.

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chris newport



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Trust me ,, it hooks!! It moves your instant center, therfore the weight transfer is better. The only comparison I can make is years ago, I drove a friends 66 chevelle wt 427 m22 and 488 gears it had bags in the coils. It was insane, but the thing wouldn't idle ,you had to side step the clutch at the lights and make sure you 5 car lengths of clear road.
The trailing arm set up is good for cornering too.
Do some research, it's worth looking at

later... Rog

-- Edited by rabbit64cs on Saturday 5th of December 2009 04:26:45 PM

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later...rog

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I'm a collector...not a builder!!Located in sunny central Saskatchewan at the lakehead!
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Guru

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Very sweet car.I love it.I also have two tubbers,a 69 firebird and a 65 beaumont wagon.In my opinion,you should keep the ladder bar setup and just fix it for simplicity sake.If it has been cracking, sounds like theres preload in the suspension,there shouldnt be,or bad welding.To check preload fairly easily,park on a level serface,with weight of a driver on the seat and you should be able to remove either front ladderbar bolt,without too much work.I ve had  ladder bars in my bird for 11 years and never had any cracks ,and I have done alot of street driving and strip racing.

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Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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not to high jack this thread...BUT, Beaumonwagon , what is the story with your car?? it looks great , and I notice the vista roof?? If the details are in an old post,, please direct me !!

great dyno pull and day at that track ,,by the way !! smokin !!

later...rog

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later...rog

AADD supporting member !!
I'm a collector...not a builder!!Located in sunny central Saskatchewan at the lakehead!


Veteran Member

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beaumontwagon wrote:

Very sweet car.I love it.I also have two tubbers,a 69 firebird and a 65 beaumont wagon.In my opinion,you should keep the ladder bar setup and just fix it for simplicity sake.If it has been cracking, sounds like theres preload in the suspension,there shouldnt be,or bad welding.To check preload fairly easily,park on a level serface,with weight of a driver on the seat and you should be able to remove either front ladderbar bolt,without too much work.I ve had  ladder bars in my bird for 11 years and never had any cracks ,and I have done alot of street driving and strip racing.



Your  wagon is  awesome!       Looks  like  a  grocery  getter  until  you hear it,  and  notice  the  big  meats  under  the  back.  
You  are  right  about  the  preload  in  my  suspension,  as  I  remember  not  spending  alot  of  time  setting  it  up.  I was  always  in a  hurry  to  go  out  and  drive it. 
From  what I have  read  at the  chassis  websites  ,there  are  alot  ways  to  set up a  4link  that  do  not work,  but  few  ways  that work  really  well.    Ladder  bars  only  have  a  couple ways  that don't  work   , so finding  the  way that works  well  is  simpler.      The  ride  quality  would  probably be  nicer  with  4 link  though  as it  allows  the  axle  to  articulate more  like a stock  type suspension.   I won't  be  driving  the  car   daily   though.


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Guru

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Thanks guys.Well the wagon was tubbed and had the roof added in about '82. I just redid the whole car over the last couple years,interior,quarters,paint ,motor ,and trans.It has a mild 454,hyd. roller,180 shot of N2o.th 400 2500 stall,430 gears.Its a super fun car ,and runs 12.60s on motor and 11.50s on nitrous.The best part is I tow the Bird to the track with it.When my Firebird ran 10's it really didnt matter where the ladder bars were adjusted,they worked perfect from the very first pass on the track,and I think they would also work fine at any of the adjustment points on the front mount,even with the power now,theres 5 of them.Ladder bars by nature are very hard hitting on the tire,with a short intersect point,compared to a 4 link,whick will hit the tire softer but sort of keep it planted more farther down track.I dont think youl notice any difference other than like you said the 4 link drives softer.By the way did I mention I love your Beaumont?!

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Its been a while since I've posted here. I bought a  welder and a  pile of parts from http://www.cachassisworks.com/ .  I was busy earlier this year!  biggrin
I went with a eurethane prostreet 4-link and a 2x3 cross member , and  an entire fab 9 housing  with Strange enterprises  center section , axles ,  and  a  Truetrac posi. . I also pieced together a rear disc brake  set up off a  Ford Explorer , with Lokar stainless parking brake cables.  The parking brake works ! I sold the old rear  end and  only re- used the gear set. I sold the 15x 12  rear wheels and  bought a used set of 15x 10 Welds smile .
I didn't have to cut into the floor  , I only had to ball peen massage the floor 1/2" to fit the 4 link brackets.  I fabbed up a custom  sway bar mount to utilize a front sway bar out of an Audi A4 , and mounted it to rear of the Beaumont. I managed to rebuild my mandrel exhaust  so the mufflers are tucked way up under the trunk  with rear dumps.  Sounds  good!!
I switched from bias tires to radial all the way around .  165 80r 15 skinnies on the front ,and  325 50 -15  Mickey Thompson ET street  drag radials on the rear .
I will post some more pics soon.
The long and short of it, the car rides like a  Cadillac  now  ,  and  I ran consistent  12:40's  @107mph   on the motor.  Next season is a   100 shot of N2O  wink


-- Edited by BBB-66-SD on Saturday 18th of September 2010 09:30:54 PM

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Addicted!

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This car is so cool.

Keep the updates coming on your rebuild.

 

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Thanks !    I was drooling over this piece of metal art when I got it home.  Its only a few hundred bucks more than  getting a  shop to narrow an  OEM housing. It's overkill for my car but I like it   peace.gif

-- Edited by BBB-66-SD on Sunday 19th of September 2010 03:33:34 AM

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Addicted!

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BBB-66-SD wrote:

Maybey  this  4  link kit would  fit under  the  floor.   http://autoweldchassis.com/Big8.ivnu  



I sse you are living in BC...Dale Gerry in Kelowna does chassis as good as Morrison. I was at his shop in Kelowna yesterday and he has some very interesting projects on the go. I don't know where in BC you are, but if you have the chance give Dale a call and check out his work. You won't be dissapointed.....guaranteed. his web site is www.dalegerry.com 

ZAPPER 



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1949 Pro Street Meteor Coupe, 468 BBC, 4L80E, Narrowed 9" 3.50 posi

1966 Biscayne post, 427 L72, M21, 4.11's 16600 original miles

1966 Hemi Satellite 4 gear 59K original miles
1968 Z28 302MO, M21, 3.73's, cowl plenum induction

1969 Ranchero 428 SCJ 4 speed



Guru

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Looks like youve been buisy....nice work.Way to go making the narrower swaybar work,I was thinking of what would work on the back of my wagon if I needed to add one,never thought of a smaller sportscar.Keep us posted.

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Uber Guru

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BBB-66-SD wrote:

Its been a while since I've posted here. I bought a  welder and a  pile of parts from http://www.cachassisworks.com/ .  I was busy earlier this year!  biggrin

I went with a eurethane prostreet 4-link and a 2x3 cross member , and  an entire fab 9 housing  with Strange enterprises  center section , axles ,  and  a  Truetrac posi. . I also pieced together a rear disc brake  set up off a  Ford Explorer , with Lokar stainless parking brake cables.  The parking brake works ! I sold the old rear  end and  only re- used the gear set. I sold the 15x 12  rear wheels and  bought a used set of 15x 10 Welds smile .
I didn't have to cut into the floor  , I only had to ball peen massage the floor 1/2" to fit the 4 link brackets.  I fabbed up a custom  sway bar mount to utilize a front sway bar out of an Audi A4 , and mounted it to rear of the Beaumont. I managed to rebuild my mandrel exhaust  so the mufflers are tucked way up under the trunk  with rear dumps.  Sounds  good!!
I switched from bias tires to radial all the way around .  165 80r 15 skinnies on the front ,and  325 50 -15  Mickey Thompson ET street  drag radials on the rear .
I will post some more pics soon.
The long and short of it, the car rides like a  Cadillac  now  ,  and  I ran consistent  12:40's  @107mph   on the motor.  Next season is a   100 shot of N2O  wink


-- Edited by BBB-66-SD on Saturday 18th of September 2010 09:30:54 PM

A Beaumont that runs mid 12's and rides like a Cadillac...does it get any better than that!  Thanks for the update...

(And those gauges look great.)

 



-- Edited by 03cts sport on Sunday 19th of September 2010 09:52:52 AM

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"So when you spot violence, or bigotry, or intolerance or fear or just garden-variety hatred or ignorance, just look it in the eye and think... The good outnumber you, and we always will."  Patton Oswalt

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Veteran Member

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The new Grant classic 15" steering wheel with the original Beaumont horn cap.

 The other horn cap is the Grant one that came with the  #989 wheel. 



-- Edited by BBB-66-SD on Friday 13th of April 2012 02:57:00 PM

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Thanks,  the nice thing about the union on the hose , is that it allows room for adjustment.    The jeep shaft fits in there really nice.  I  am looking forward to trying this steering upgrade out .  Other guys say it's one of the best mods they've done.



-- Edited by BBB-66-SD on Friday 13th of April 2012 06:59:46 PM

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One of the latest upgrades is this  Flaming River tilt column  . Its a 30"  with a 1" DD shaft  .  To save some money , I am using a  $20 Jeep Cherokee  steering shaft .  I  heated the shaft with a propane torch to melt the inner plastic retainers , and then separate the two halves.  Its a collapsible shaft by design , and it has a rubber isolator at  one end and two U-joints.  As a bonus ,the U-joint allows more room at the steering box input in case I install an LS engine, and the steering will be less sloppy then a rag joint.

I also bolted in a $40 Grand Cherokee steering box , for quicker ratio steering.

The picture shows the 1/16" deep relief I filed into the 1"  DD end of the new column ,  to allow the U-joint bolt to pass through and lock the steering shaft to  the  column. The  Jeep steering shaft length is good , no trimming required. The picture shows 1/2 the shaft after I separated and painted it.

I am making my  own harness for the 4 -way flashers to save an addition $80, as you can see by the butt connectors.

  The column and floor plate are nice pieces.  The column housing  is stainless.  I sanded it and clear coated it, and for an extra $100 you can get  it in powder coated  black , but I decided to go this route for now



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