Canadian cast iron PowerGlide rebuilt

Fitz · Guru

Canadian cast iron PowerGlide rebuilt

Fitz · Guru

Also, it's a good thing to use many container/bag as needed for all the section of the transmission. When cleaning or rebuilding it's easier.

Remove the modulator cover, be careful a spring is inside and trying to knock you down..

you will find 2 short shaft that pushing by the diaphragm of the modulator, place it in the running position for the picture.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

Now unbolt the cover just under the modulator.

After place a drip pan, some liquid will drop when you will unbolt the other cover, watch for spring.

Fitz.

-- Edited by Fitz on Sunday 30th of January 2011 01:52:10 PM

Fitz · Guru

Under this cover you can see the first and the reverse clutch servo-piston.

Identify the position of those small parts, and store carefully.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

In this picture below you can see the 2 piston's position, the right one is for the first band speed, on the left is for the reverse band. Later those piston will be removed.

Now dissamble the rear part to access to the drive shaft joint.

Since the joint is removed you can see the rear hydraulic pump. There is one in front just in the back of the torque converter and this one. This one does not work until around 15 MPH and take over the other (the front one) who work mostly under 15 MPH. At this speed a spool shift automaticly to change from one to the other. When the pump bolts are removed pull by a bolt placed in the lock ring bolts hole.

Here it is, what the rear pump look like. Later the pump will be opened.

Here the rear pump installation place.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

Now on the left side, remove the governor cover to have access to it.

This small plastic shim is very important, if it's missing the governor will hit the cover, make noise, grinding each other and will probably misalign the oil passage between the transmission housing and the governor.

Fitz.

gparis7 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

Great tech section. Thx for posting.

If anybody needs one of these transmissions I have one.

Fitz · Guru

Inside the governor hole housing you will mostly see nothing. You don't want to see scuff mark or things like that, it must be clean and smooth.

Now you can un bolt the center part of the PG. You can remove it by hand but be carefull, it weight around 125 lbs and place it on a work bench.

What is missing inside the center part is here on the front part (bell housing).

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

Here you can see the selector mechanism for the shift lever.

Before doing anything else remove and identify this trust washer in the reverse drum.

Remove the clutch pack assy from the bellhousing section.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

In this picture you can see the 2 seal ring mark and in the middle a black slot. The slot is a oil passage, and the seal ring force the oil to pass thru and avoid leakage outside.

NOTE: this clutch pack is not original to a 53/54 PG, is from a later year. It's not unusual to see this modification. It was easier in the 60's or the 70's to find a clutch pack like this one. The main difference is the internal conception and return spring. The shaft is coming from the same era. At the end the same way to rebuild the PG apply.

Remove the shaft by hand by pulling it, and look at on this picture a exemple of a seal ring on the shaft.

On this picture you can see the male part going into the clutch pack, you can see the 2 seal ring and the oil groove distributor, matching the slot in the clutch pack on the picture above. Also take care of the trust washer, most of the time they are in good shape.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

Place the clutch pack at is storage place for futur inspection, after remove the first speed piston/actuator.

You can see the seal ring around the edge of the piston. This seal ring and the cylinder must look smooth with no mark. The purpose of those seal ring inside the PG (they have all the same job to do) is to seal between one moving (or rotating) part and another (generaly non-moving one). It's like compression ring inside an engine. Look for broken spring and store carefully for later cleaning and assembly.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

Now you have access to the first speed band. You have to take picture of the band lever actuator positioning, this use to tight the band on the drum from the piston action.

On the next one you can see the band material wear. Note, when you order a new repair kit, most of the time you don't need to order 2 band (the first and the reverse are the same), only one will do because the reverse one is mostly always like new. But take care in the inspection of the reverse band, the material on the band can be thick enough but can take off the steel collar.

Now you have access to the rear reverse drum/ring gear. Look at the ring around the drum, this is the ring use to lock the car in park with the lever.

And now is what the PG is looking with mostly all the parts out. The reverse band is ready to be removed.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

After unscrew the reverse band adjusting bolt. Remove the reverse band and take picture of the actuator, then, pull out the reverse band piston/actuator.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

now the rear part of the PG is empty, remove carefully the bodyvalve from the bellhousing, and the front part will be empty too. You don't expect to see anything worn on/in the bellhousing.

In this picture you can see all the oil passage inside the bodyvalve and one of the most important pieces of the transmission is that small spool at the right, this is the shifting lever spool, the one that give the order to the transmission to go in reverse or in drive, neutral etc. The spool have a slot and it is connected to the lever inside the rear part of the PG.

Here you see the front oil pump, store for further inspection.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

Now it's time to rebuild the clutch pack. Only one clutch pack is used by a PG transmission.

Lift off the big snapring by prying it with a screwdriver and open the cover for inspection.

There is NO tension spring back on this snapring. You can remove it with ease.

When all the clutch disc are removed, now you have to face spring. On this PG clutch pack many spring are used, but if your PG is not modified you will find one huge spring instead of many. You can look in your manual to see the differences between those clutch pack.

Now it's time to remove the pressure piston, the spring are use to put back the piston at the bottom of the drum when the oil pressure is at 0 psi. You can use 2 vise-grip to compress the spring or when the clutch pack are bigger, it's better to use a shop press.

After use a good tool to remove the lockring, it's not a high cost tool and make the job easier. Now you have access to the piston. In this one some spring are missing or broken.

1290373062-d__montage_clutch_pack_004__Small___Small_.jpg

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

This is an example of a seal ring. Most are lock this way. To lock both end together, you can't slide side by side because when they are into the groove you have no room, you have to pass it one over the other while in the groove.

Ok back to the clutchpack inspection, now everything is unlock, pull the pressure piston out of the drum. You can see the outer and inner rubber piston seal.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

What a repair kit should look like, gasket, diaphragm, band, steel and fiber plate etc.

After cleaning all the parts, it's time to reassembling the PG. While we are in the clutchpack, Look the piston surface for smooth finish and oil it, install new rubber seal.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

Hit gently the piston to be sure it is at the bottom of the drum. Place spring (in a non modify PG there is one spring only), compress the ring, lock it with the snap ring, and begin to install the steel and fiber plate. After place the cap and lock it with the big snapring. Your clutch pack is ready to run.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

Now it's time to fill the center section.

Take the old reverse band and use it again for reverse, the new one will be used for the first speed operation. Put the reverse band at the bottom of the center section. If the bushing as to be replaced, use a bushing puller/installator tool, it worth it, don't use punch or hammer directly on bushing.

Now put back in place the reverse drum planetary assy.

Don't forget to oil everything that is running with oil to avoid dry start like piston seal ring and bushing. Now put back the first speed band.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

After, put back the clutchpack assy into the first speed band, and install the intermediary shaft through the clutchpack.

Now the center section is mostly completed, now do yourself a favor, make this rod to help you with installation. You will need two size one for the center section and bellhousing match and another size for the hydraulic side section.

After, install new gasket and the bodyvalve on the bellhousing.

It's time now to inspect and put together parts of the front pump. If no wear mark is showed on pump rotor reassembled with oil, must not be started dry.

Fitz.

Fitz · Guru

Remove the front pump oil seal, clean surface and replace by a new one, after oil the Oring and put it around the pump into the groove.

Now the pump can be installed to the bellhousing, align the hole with a screwdriver, there is only one position for the pump. Torque gently all the bolt in rotation to house the pump straight.

Fitz.

59poncho · Poncho Master!

thats a great thread, if i need mine rebuilt i'll bring it to you because I'm not touching it!! LOL I also like that whizzer sticker in the background of one of your pics.

Pontiacanada · A Poncho Legend!

Amazing Andre' ... simply amazing. You should do this for a living, I mean do internet photo-based instruction. Great pictures, and a lot of work.
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