http://ecat.crosscanadaparts.com/php2/cross/base/dropdowns.php?make=CHEV


"CROSS CANADA"   had everything for a NOVA  

The Nova was a Chevrolet,

and "may be close" to the cars GM, made for sale, at Pontiac dealers only   

"If you are in Canada", you could check at CarQuest, Napa Stores 

they all sell cross Canada Auto parts

I buy my sheet metal from a guy near Minneapolis. Great guy to deal with and he's a first gen Nova guy to boot, so he will understand what you need. He lives a few miles from our very own Dr CAS, an American member here on Canadian Poncho.

Exactly. Jeff Jones.

Great guy. I've dealt with him on new sheet metal, other repro parts and used parts too. Always a pleasure to deal with him.

No, but I can get you his contact info tonight if you like.

has any one delt with early birds

ok im about to start replacing the floor on the drivers side,also the under floor seat brace,any one got pics of replacing the brace,instructions.......

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44764

I don't think you can see the pictures unless you sign up as a member. I would highly recommend that you do. This guy did a great write up.

I added some pictures of my own to his thread. If you have questions, I will gladly help however I can. I really enjoyed doing my pans. The following year I did another set in a Nova for a man from Winnipeg.

wow,those pics are just like mine,hope mine turns out as nice.

Hey carl did you weld your under floor seat brace to the floor first or after the floor was in,also seat belt pads,and im going to guess you removed your floor right to the kicker panel and installed like the factory floor,plug welded to the kicker.......................

Ok, I'll try to answer with pictures as much as I can-

I cut out the original pan only up to the seam that would be under the drivers heel, the one that runs from the outer sill to the tunnel.  I had to do a very small patch forward of that on the driver's side only, about 1" X 16". The repro pan did go all the way forward and a couple of inches up the toe board but I liked the idea of keeping the factory seam. Looking at your pictures I think you will need to go farther forward.



The brace under the floor that runs from the sill to the tunnel under the seat was welded on later. I first fitted the pan so that I could butt weld it all the way around. Then I traced the brace out on the underside of the floor with a marker. At the same time, I did all the traciing where anything would have to be welded to the new pan. Then I took the pan out, flipped it over, marked where I wanted all the holes for plug welding and drilled holes. Don't make the holes too small. I think I first did 1/4" or 5/16" and those were too small. Seems to me 3/8" worked the best for a proper weld.



I welded the seat belt pads on in a similar way to the factory. It appeared to me that they just kind of held them in place and welded! They were not done perfectly straight, to say the least. Most of the floors I look at are like that from the factory.

It's too late for you to do now, but I took measurements for my seat track mounting holes from the old pan before I cut it out. I measured from the screw holes in the sill, the ones the carpet retaining plate use.



When I was welding, I made sure I had spark protection surrounding the interior so as not to get marks on glass, door panels etc.



Use the whole pan, don't be tempted to cheat. Other than at that front seam, I trimmed NONE of the repro pan away. Where it needed trimming, I trimmed the old floor to enlarge the opening.

Make sure you support well under the car. I had blocks under the sills and crossmembers as much as I could. Also, I did NOT kneel on the sill when I worked. I had heard it is very weak when the pan is cut out.



I will likely add more later as I think of more stuff.





-- Edited by Carl Stevenson on Wednesday 16th of March 2011 07:15:48 PM

I have lots more pictures in case you have other angles you'd like.

Any questions I didn't cover in my post?

did you but weld to the drive shaft tunnel to keep a stalk look......would't an overlapping joint be stronger.