This topic has hit the forum a few times and the oils available in regular stores have no zinc. The only way is to get to a speed shop or some supply house and purchase the good stuff.
The contents were 1200ppm-1600 in the good days and now its gone. There are several brands that i have used and some friends which will work great.
I use Valvoline V-R1 but Brad Penn is another along with Joe Gibbs specialty oil/ Royal Purple. The additives are also another option such as Lucas which is tops.
The problem does exist i have lost a camshaft along with two friends it gets real expensive when your motor grinds valve lifters down a 1/4 inch. This has been in many car forums and many older motors have grenaded themselves.
The Desiel oils used to have lots like Shell Rottella but the new standards with emmisions have cut there content back also...be carefull.
I guess i have been there and done that and helped a couple guys pull there motors after the carnage, not fun.
The best thing is to buy proven products made for older applications.
Most of us might drive 2-3k a year so 10/15 bucks more for the right oils are very small for the piece of mind.

I've been using GM EOS for the last 2 years ,  7 bucks at the wholesalers...

64 Hard Top wrote:

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Thanks everyone for the input.

Once more question.,..

Running regular gas on non hardened valve seats WITHOUT lead additive in gas.

Any guesses on how many miles you can get on a set of heads before a rebuild is nessasary?

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          I guess  20 years and 20,000. miles

Thanks for the input.  Could you tell me the manufaturer of both additives.?.

I go across the line a few times a year so I could also buy in the US.

I use lead additive every 2nd. or 3rd. tankfull on local driving in the Catalina, BUT on long hauls to the US or car shows up here I use it every tankfull. It's the long steady runs that cause the damage of constant "hammering" of valves against the seats!!! I used to run Shell Rotella diesel oil but found out they have cut the zinc back [as stated above] I now use Lucas additive & 10W30 as I have seen a few cam & lifters in other peoples "rides" that had  "FAILURES"

64 Hard Top wrote:

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Thanks for the input.  Could you tell me the manufaturer of both additives.?.

I go across the line a few times a year so I could also buy in the US.

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 The ZDDP is made by Cam Shield. I bought it at the Hershey flea market. Time to repurchase. Hope I can find it or a comperable product at Carlisle in a couple of weeks.

www.cam-shield.com

The lead substitute is made by CD2. Its called super concentrated lead substitute. I was buying a large bottle ( about $12 and does 320 US gallons ) once or twice a year at places like Pep Boys. I use it in all my old cars and have a bottle handy in each. A couple of years ago I was at WalMart in Carlisle and they had the smaller bottles ( does 160 US gallons ) on sale for 5 bucks so I grabbed what they had. Not sure if its still available as their web site is very limited.

www.CD-2products.com

My 396 was broke in with Joe Gibbs breakin oil, which has zinc. My builder would not fire it up and break in the cam unless I had a mechanical oil pressure guage, a mechanical temp guage and breakin oil with zinc. He suggested Joe Gibbs so that is what I poured in. A bit pricey but as Carl says, cams are prone to being wiped without a zinc additive. Even after break in, run zinc additive.  There is a 5 w 30, 10 w 40, or 15 w 50.