zinc oil additive

Bill shuba · Guru

zinc oil additive

68 Grande · Guru

From what I read, the zinc is supposed to stick to the metal which forms a barrier or film between the metals, like between the lobe and lifter for example. So, techncally, the meatls are not supposed to be incontact with eachother. Also, it is supposed to be good for storage as the oil sticks to the metal.

I am not an expert but my car is stored in a unheated former horse barn in winter so I want my internal engine components to to have an oil film stuck to them. When the 396 came apart for the rebuild, three pistons would barely move on the wrist pin and I read somewhere that could possibly be from storage conditions, which I can not confirm definatley. Anyways, a bit of insurance I quess.

Pritch · Guru

My veteran mechanic,who has built hundreds of engines including my 396 stroker, highly recommends the Hot Rod And Classic high performance motor oil which is made by Lucas. I have been using it for 5 years and am very pleased thus far.

-- Edited by Pritch on Monday 15th of October 2018 11:15:01 AM

invader sedan · Veteran Member

Never knew Lucas made this product. Where is it available.

Pritch · Guru

I purchased my Hot Rod and Classic car motor oil through a firm here in Regina called Auto Electric. If you go online, you will find all kinds of suppliers, especially high performance shops. The following is a direct quote from a write-up included on the Summit Racing site. If shops do not stock it, I suspect that they could order it in for you.

"This Lucas Oil Hot Rod and Classic Car motor oil is manufactured with the highest quality paraffinic base oils. It's fortified with a unique additive package containing high levels of zinc, molybdenum, and phosphorus, which provide a tougher, thicker additive film for maximum protection, even under the most severe conditions. It improves film strength between the cylinder wall and piston rings, slows oil burning, and improves pressure in worn engines. Lucas Oil Hot Rod and Classic Car motor oil has good cold-temperature properties, stands up to high operating temperatures, and is compatible with methanol and all racing fuels, as well as with synthetic and non-synthetic oils. The oil is designed for use in muscle, showroom, classic, and trophy cars without catalytic converters and can be used in racing applications. It is not recommended for passenger car use."

Hope this helps.

-- Edited by Pritch on Monday 15th of October 2018 09:51:11 PM

dualquadpete · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

I used this before going to West Virginia,in the 64 Wagon,Lucas Hot rod 20/ 40 oil. Wagon hardly used any oil down & back + I put a bottle of "lead additive & a bottle of octane booster" in each tank. Mileage was good [22MPG] at 65 & engine didn't "ping" on CRAPPY U S gas, booster brought octane up around 5 points, & engine running 202 heads & flat tops & pretty "lumpy" cam performed very well.

DonSSDD · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

I use eos from an ac delco dealer and regular Dino 10-w30 for all oil changes. On some heads, installing hardened seats can cause the head to leak coolant. I had this happen on a 327 and it is also not recommended on a 409. Even the serious 409 drag racers recommend against hardened seats on a 409 with stock cast iron heads.

68 Beau Second Time · Veteran Member

A good read on oil's is a Blog called 540 Rat. Just Google it.

LT1Caddy · Poncho Master!

EOS is till available at the dealer. I saw a Castrol ad in the spring Canadian Muscle car mag for Castrol GTX classic ...High zinc content

hawkeye5766 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

Kind of like "Depends" as you get older. Your old school engine is getting older and needs more support. Have been running EOS for years. Run the AC Delco additive. Use qbout 1/2 a can per oil change

Engine

Leo · Addicted!

This is the motor oil I've been using for 20 years. I've never had a problem.

Valvoline VR 1 High zinc

LT1Caddy · Poncho Master!

Castrol has one out now too. Just saw it advertised in the Canadian Muscle car mag...

68vert · Guru

Car I bought last Summer had a 'fresh' oil change by previous owner but fairly certain was just typical modern Pennzoil 10W30 with minimal zinc. Didn't want to change it before winter storage so added some Lucas Zinc additive 'just in case'. I'll replace it this Spring and replace with Lucas Hot Rod & Classic oil or maybe try the Amsoil Z-Rod stuff?

I used the Valvoline VR-1 Leo mentioned too, but have to order it in to my local Napa and it's no cheaper than the others mentioned.

Of course all just my 2 cents as I've read WAY too many articles on motor oil smile

https://www.lucasoil.ca/products/engine-break-in-oil-additive-tb-zinc-plus/

Glenn Musgrave · Addicted!

I'll throw my 2 cents in on both oil with zinc and cams. When I picked up my block, heads after reconditioning etc. the machine shop (Nova Automotive been around forever) told me to be sure to only use break-in oil when I first start it up. Run it for about 20 minutes and do a full change but be sure to ONLY use oil that had zinc in it. They sell it and I know some NAPA stores will carry limited amounts during old car season.

A couple guys pointed out, newer engines are designed for roller cams. I think the first stock motor I worked on with a roller cam was 1985 Chev. I put a Melling cam with flat bottom lifters in my 283. I was surprised to see the change in break-in procedures for cams these days. Things have gotten pretty precise due to the new metals I'm guessing and probably learned a thing or two from the failure rate. For example, they want all the air purged from the oil galleys and recommend using a pressure tank system or priming tool. No free spinning of the engine. Before attempting to start it, the timing is to be set, with point ignition you can use a test light for that, and they want fuel in the carb. They want the engine to fire up instantly. Once you confirm there are no leaks bring the RPM to 1500 - 2000 for 20 minutes. After this run in period, make final adjustments and you are good to go.

Based on Nova Automotive's recommendation for use of the break-in oil for the rest of the engine, you would change the oil before road testing.