Canadian Poncho wrote:

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Does anyone on here have a good used one you could give to Hardtail?

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 Todd, it looks wrong to you then I am guessing?

 

 

Most offshore parts don't fit right.

Soo. Couldn't get my hands on the proper PCV. Ended up getting a new booster all together. Thanks to Carl Stevenson as always for guiding me with parts.

The first master cylinder I got was defective, second one worked like a charm. Had difficulty flaring brake lines, they would never mushroom properly. Ended up getting machined ones, which was a hell of a lot cheaper and less time consuming. All new brakes installed on all 4 wheels.

I got to drive her around the driveway for the first time ever. I didn't go faster than 5kmph, BUT, I can tell she has LOTS of torque, LOL!

I have to assemble my new spark plug wire kit this weekend, they are 90 degreed on the plugs, so they headers will not burn them. Bumpers going on as well, and the front-end trim.

Just gotta finish up the wiring to the ignition so no more hot wiring!

I finally washed it, collecting some dirty dust in the shop. The orange peel is not that bad in the light, like it is in the dark.

Also, my automatic choke I think sticks. How long are auto chokes supposed to be running for before they turn off? I tried WD40 on it but it doesn't seem to help.

 

-- Edited by Carl Stevenson on Thursday 4th of August 2016 10:07:54 PM

Car looks really good. You must be proud of the results!

Looking great! Can't wait for some of the shiny stuff to go on,will make that paint POP even more.

Thanks so much guys!!

Here are the pictures of my carb.

-- Edited by Carl Stevenson on Friday 5th of August 2016 09:05:29 PM

If you are unsure, the choke pull off is bordered here in white, the vacuum hose to it that I marked in red should have vacuum with the engine running.

Basically, when you come to the car with the engine cold and step on the gas pedal, the choke flap should snap closed. It sits that way until you start it. The pull off (depending on how it's adjusted using that little screw right at the top rear of my white border) will open the choke flap slightly, let's say for arguments sake, 1/8" inch. I'm sure there's an actual specification for the correct amount.

As the engine warms up, heated air is pulled through the bimetallic coil behind the black circular plate that says "GM CARBURETOR ROCHESTER PRODUCTS" on it and as that coil warms up and rotates inside that housing, it slowly pulls the choke open. Those three rivets holding that plate in place prevent adjusting that coil. However, it's easy to fix that problem. Carefully drill out those rivets with a bit as small as possible, replace them (gently) with very short sheet metal screws. That will allow you to rotate that plate to get the desired cold setting for the choke plate if it isn't found to be idea as is. I always adjust those as lean as possible because I hate engines that are set too rich when cold.

There is also a cold idle speed adjustment screw somewhere but I can't see where it is and I forget!

Hopefully a real technician and not a backyarder like me will chime in here!

This should be closed when cold.

here are the carb pics. I think I made a mistake, I've never used an auto choke before so I don't know, plus this is bigger than my Oldsmobile 330. It should take a few minutes to warm up right? It seems after about 3ish minutes if you hit the gas it idles right down to normal speed.

-- Edited by Carl Stevenson on Sunday 7th of August 2016 08:48:24 AM

When did GM replace the screws on the choke thermostat coil with rivets?        

Not sure why the pic won't load carl I will try again when inside. Getting the front all installed now. Bumpers done. Just putting in the trim on the front end starting to look like a car again. Need to sort out the ignition wiring next and build my new spark plug kit.