Looking forward to seeing it!

Nice upgrades, and awesome car!

How do you like your Wilwoods? What master did you use?

I think the .5" studs are really more for race pounding. And they would, just as you found, cause issues with wheel fitment.

I'm with you on the rear drums, with my Wilwood 4 pistons up front, she stops on a dime and shows good balance with the in line adjuster set.

When I rebuild the rear, I'll rebuild the drum brakes as well.

NOT an issue with clearance Marshalldude. But you must specify what type of spindles you have before ordering (drum or disk). I purchased my kit via Hot Rods+Customs in Chilliwack, BC. ...because they are direct dealers of Summit Racing. (I found Summit had the best prices).

The discs I have are dual piston. Unfortunately, my 15" mags will not accept the larger 4 piston style.

The discs I have are intended to fit most 15" mags.

HAVE FUN convincing the wife you "really need them!" lol!

beaumontwagon wrote:

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Looks great. Nice upgrades. Did you get the studs themselves turned down ,or redrilled the rotors for smaller studs? Just curious.

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A machine shop turned down the 1/2" studs and re threaded. Still utilizes the same threaded holes in the Wilwood aluminum hub.

beaumontwagon wrote:

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That sounds a little risky. I thought wheel studs were hardened steel . When they're machined, the hardening comes off as well, as its only about .010''-.030'' thick. Just a thought.
Awesome car !

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  Wheel studs from what I know are Grade 8 material.

They are medium carbon alloy steel and are hardened through, not case hardened,

-- Edited by Greaser on Thursday 19th of June 2014 12:16:53 AM

Greaser wrote:

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beaumontwagon wrote:

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That sounds a little risky. I thought wheel studs were hardened steel . When they're machined, the hardening comes off as well, as its only about .010''-.030'' thick. Just a thought.
Awesome car !

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  Wheel studs from what I know are Grade 8 material.

They are medium carbon alloy steel and are hardened through, not case hardened,

which means you are not removing a hardened "skin".

 

The interior of a Grade 8 is not softer.

 

The threads on Grade 8 studs are rolled/formed (squeezed) and not machined.This makes for the threads to be compressed and strong.

In theory if you machine the thread, you are interrupting the grain structure of the steel,and you could be leaving stress risers (sharp areas), 

that some say weaken the material.

The weakest area of any Grade 8 bolt or stud is the minor diameter of the threads. 

If the thread dimensions of a cut thread were cut with precision the same as a rolled thread fastener and if they are identical in specs, 

there should be absolutely no difference in strength.

If these studs were cut on a CNC machine,I would say that this so called weakening is probably a misconception.

 

As a side note:

 

"Too low a torque will cause the stud to pick up more load more often and eventually cycle it to failure.Therefore,you want to make

sure you torque your studs to the right torque specs using a torque wrench...and make sure to torque dry,clean threads.

Lubricated threads can significantly change the actual preload on the stud and you could risk over torquing it."

 ...Thanks for providing that info Greaser. That's sounds similar to what the machine shop told me when I handed them the task.  I'm going to assume the threads where cut on the lathe (because the machinist said it took approx. 15min each stud) @2.5hrs total labour charged. haha! ...Hope I make it to Penticton with all x4 tires still attached!

 

-- Edited by Greaser on Thursday 19th of June 2014 12:16:53 AM

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Ok that's good to hear! Didn't want to hear about a wheel falling off on that beauty. Nothing like trying to make these oldies drive and handle better.