A friend suggested using a hack saw so as to not heat it up to much....I am a little skeptical to say the least.

I personally would re work the latch system... No reason you can not incorporate a cable from a late model whatever ...and build a hid den bracket that you can reach in and pull, jus the same as pulling the latch in the middle of the plate.

 

it will take some fab work,,, but that's what I would do...

Finally wrote:

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Hi Guys,

Just got a shiny new front bumper that I ordered from Early Birds. Looks great but I just learned that a 66 Chevelle does not use the same latch style. The Beaumont hood release  (1st bumper picture) extends through the front bumper while the Chevelle (2nd bumper picture)  doesn't. So wondering if I should just bite the bullet and pay to have the front one rechromed (for about twice the price) or is it feasible to trim the hole in the new front bumper without the plating just all flaking, peeling, and corroding....thoughts??

Kevin

 

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 Being a machinist by trade, here's how I would handle drilling the hole.

Start with drilling a small hole using a carbide center drill using lubricant.

Make sure you punch mark the location of the hole so the drill doesn't wander on the chrome.

Carbide drills are for hardened materials.....chrome is hard. Lubricants will keep it from overheating.

Once the small hole is drilled,increase the size of the drill slightly using a slightly larger drill until you get the size you need.....

and of course lubricate as your going up in size. This should minimize any possibility of major chipping of the chrome or overheating.

I haven't drilled through chrome but I have drilled through hardened steel that is a lot thicker than the bumper thickness and it works..

Ideally using a carbide drill in each step is probably is best but I'm thinking because the hole isn't that deep it should work with sharp drills.

Just an opinion.....

Acadian is the same, hole in bumper. If you are going to drill and keep I would paint the backside of the bumper. Think metal is more porous than chrome so they tend to rust out from the back forward, that's why you see bumpers with chrome on the surface but nothing behind it. I would also mix some fiberglass (clear) resin and spread around hole after drilling to help seal up. Just what I'd do, no expert.

If you decide to drill it,  after the pilot hole , use a Unibit or stepper bit,  and lots of lube... Nice thing with them , is the do not grab like a typical drill bit when going to the next size up.

we use them on stainless steel cabinets , do a good job, but don't last long.

I have one question for you. Is this your only classic that you have on the road or do you have a few? If this is your only one I wouldn't take the chance of jeopardizing a new bumper by punching a hole in it. I'd bite it and get the old one rechromed and have the correct bumper with probably even better chrome than the off shore job and be happy with it. And it is actually funny that in a short time you forget how much extra it may have cost you but you have a good feeling for a very long time that you have the best bumper on there that is available. Remember you only need to do it once and your done and we aren't talking thousands of dollars. Just my thoughts.

I bought the new bumper as well at about a 1/4 of the cost of rechroming. Hole does not need to be as big as original bumper. Slow drill with lots of lube

Bunch of great tips here.....I think I will try drilling it with the stepped drill bit, paint the back first to try to prevent the corrosion and apply some kind of sealant on the raw edge after. Had someone else suggest filing the edge after it was cut with a down motion only to prevent lifting the chrome. It's my only collector car and while it is a driver not a show car I still want the old girl to gleam.  The original bumper will go in the rafters as plan "B" if this goes south on me.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Kevin

Looks great, just hope the nice hole wasn't put in upside down......good $$ saver.

Nice to hear it worked well. Now for the test of time. You sealed it up well, so hopefully it's all good.