Engine in the car I purchased was built by a local reputable shop and they were kind enough to send me the internal details and even the dyno sheet. Pretty happy with the 414 HP / 419 TQ combo from the alum headed 350 vortec block. Was even happier to see it has a roller cam, but here comes the cringe worthy question since its been asked WAY too many times.
Read many MANY threads on need for zinc rich oil on flat tappet cams but what are thoughts on the need for older style engines with roller cams? Some said pushrods in rocker cups and guideplates etc also need the zinc???
I like the idea that synthetics break down less at high temps and they supposedly cling Better for less wear on startup etc Engine only has about 3000 KM so I want to protect as best I can.
Am I over thinking this and since it has a roller cam no need to worry?
This is a subject with opinions to no end, but I'll add mine;
I have a roller BB, and use Zinc Rich Valvoline VR-1 10/30. Have since fireup. Probably overkill, but I do it anyways. No harm.
And in my new hydraulic flat tappet 327, I'll likely run the same VR-1 once I drain the Lucas break in oil, and Comp Cams flat tappet break in additive. Now both those engines not being used as daily drivers over all conditions, so I think I can get away with the VR-1's lower detergent package. As long as they get changed every year, it should be fine.
3000kms should be good enough to have the rings seated, so if it's really good on oil consumption at this point, then any good full synthetic should be fine.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
Thanks Mark, I know this is a highly over discussed topic. I know my engine had Lucas break-in oil too and Im not even sure if thats still in there?
Heard good things about VR1, zinc cant hurt, just not sure where to buy on west coast, heard possibly Napa so Ill check there as I understand they have quality WIX made filters too.
With roller lifters there's no need for the zinc required for flat tappets. Break in oil has various additives, including zinc and stuff to make the rings seat.
Once broken in, your roller lifter engine has no need for extra zinc, or break in oil.
You can get VR1 at Carquest. But like Clint said you likely don't need the zinc. I use it just because I have from the start, seems a quality blend, and the BB burns zero oil with it. It did some in the beginning, then settled in really tight.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
Adding to this; I'll be honest, it's somewhat obscure, and probably not an issue worth worrying about, but I think the zinc helps with the fuel pump pushrod to cam lobe wear. I read one too many articles with guys having that lobe on pushrod go out for whatever reason, and the nightmare they had repairing it. The big motor guys always avoided it having an electric, but in my warped reasoning, it is the one spot on a street roller motor where this kind of wear can still take place.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
Thanks guys, no luck on VR1 at my local NAPA and we have no Carquest here on Westcoast. I do have a left over jug of 20W50 Lucas Hot Rod oil (zinc rich) and engine builder said its a good weight for my engine. I do also have a 5W30 jug of Pennzoil Platinum synthetic ( for my truck) but concerned its too thin. AMSOIL has a ZRod 20W50 synthetic as well but will see if maybe Lordco has VR1 before I change it out.
Thanks again for your input on this over discussed topic.
Thanks again guys, sounds like I should really track down some VR1! Mark, your fuel pump comment is a good one too, just so happens my block is one of the later crate ones with no provision for mechanical pump so I of course have an electric one...should make change to Fuel Inj. (been looking at a Sniper system) that much easier if I decide to go that route.
-- Edited by 68vert on Monday 22nd of February 2021 07:29:51 PM
