Getting into some work finally on the Laurentian doorpanels. Tired of driving it around bare. It's not a good look to be sure. Ugly.

So I figured this job might be suitable for a little needed post, so why not!

Anyways, the panels on the 65 as found were in tough shape. All the upper vinyl was wasted, the metal top backers were all loose on the cards, two had basically fallen off, and the chrome Mylar on the accents had basically gone away. But alas! At least all the vinyl below the accent strip was basically good, but for a small section of cracked hard vinyl on one corner of a door panel. And the mounting "nails" along the sides were all intact but for one. The carboard cards on the drivers side were water warped and were showing some traces of black mold. The panels are exactly the same as a 1965 Catalina 2 door sedan, but you cannot find anyone repoping them. If it were a HT, then you'd have some hope, but not the lowly sedan at least in the rear. I'm not doing SMS, nope, not for this budget sedan. So there is only one solution, fix them myself.

Panels as found, rotten tops, rusting metal backer panels, accent strip Mylar applique faded and all but gone away, warped cards,

The sun baked remains of the chrome Mylar gently brushes out of the way with a mini wire brush. My replacement material solution may actually surprise you,

First order of business, cut away the rotten vinyl, pull out the old dirty batting, remove the loose and rusty upper metal backers from the cards (two fell off on their own), bend away the staples and pull those rotten fuzzy strips off the backers,

This card was in good shape along the top, 

Some of the roughness seen on the panel is old glue, but mostly surface rusted metal. I think they were actually crudely plated in some form at one time. I could see some evidence of bright silver along the fuzzy mount flanges, there is a actual date code stamped on them.

Fuzzy strips removed, more on these later,

I then went to work in an attempt to straighten the warped cards. The weather was great, and it could be done out in the sun. I used a spray bottle with water and a few drops of Dawn mixed in to break the surface tension. Gradually dampened the board in the affected areas to the point it would yield with slight effort, but no more. With some Rube Goldbergian weighting and support (and a log)...it worked! And in a few days they were in much better shape than before. At least presentable.

One can see the cracked/damaged corner in the image below. I simply filled it all in with DAP Alex Plus paintable caulk, wiped it with a damp cloth,

I spent an afternoon with a new coarse Scotchbrite Roloc and a wire wheel cleaning the panels up. The Roloc wheel worked wonders, and is worth every penny of it's $12. A wire wheel finished the job. The insides of the panels weren't all that important, just any surface to be glued needed to be clean, and the outside surface that would meet the new vinyl needed to be relatively smooth.

Next I had to come up with a way to re-attach the metal uppers to the cards. On two of the cards the upper line where the metal is crimped/punched into place were in very poor shape. The board was basically super delicate and coming apart - delaminating, so it'd be a challenge.

I'd need to back the metal panel where it attached to have it regain any strength. I found two suitable galvanized .035" metal strips in the shed (the correct length to boot!) to act as the backers for the upper panels on the front doors. Two aluminum strips for the rears. I clamped them to the card where I thought they should sit, made two reference marks on the strip using the two provided slotted openings in the cards, and removed the strip. Lined the upper metal panel up with the strip and marked the remaining holes. Struck and drilled all the holes to take a #10 Robertson metal screw.

In order to allow the metal panel punched "Crowns" back into the board holes, I simply ground them all down so the little crown curves were gone. If I left them the board would not receive the panel properly or flush,

Before, crowns,

After, flat,

To provide so additional strength to the board and the assembly overall, I simply used strips of some good old fiberglass drywall joint mesh. Perfect item for the application I figure.

For glue to tie it all together I chose some PL Premium Max in grey. It costs significantly more than the brown PL, but is miles ahead in ease of use. Unlike the brown, it isn't messy (read like ridiculously sticky like the brown) at all, dries slow, cleans easy with lacquer thinner, and allows a bunch of repositioning (that... I always need).

Apply the glue then trowel it out, mesh applied on the back of the board, another full bead front and back and across the holes, glue into any delamination's, then the metal panel and strip come together with screws sandwiching the card tightly in between. The excess clue oozes out the sides and the metal panel holes. I know then I'll be getting a good bond.

Left overnight, screws tight, panel supported/weighted to keep it all flat. Clamps come off in the morning,

Screws removed, excess glue buffed off, the tops are in place... solid. Doesn't look like much yet, it seems like a bunch of work, and it is. Surely it could have been done quicker and easier, but better? Probably not. I'm happy so far. A good start on saving them.

So far, I have 3 panels glued, I'll do the last, then its onto applying new upper vinyl and more...