Doing it on a bare chassis is a nasty job. Do you have an old pair that you could trash? Cut a coil or two out of them, then install them until you have the car mostly assembled with engine in, body on etc, then install the real ones. It's much easier when you can use the weight of the car to help out. I venture to say, safer that way too.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
Are you installing them the correct way with the lower control arm connected to the spindle and swinging in the inside end of the lower control arm into it's pocket? You need the bar as shown in the service manual, and the block of wood to stabilize the inside end of the lower control arm.
Randy , do you have anyone up your way that can cage the springs for you?
The only guy I know who can band the springs is off work.
I love the ideal of cutting a different set down.
I got the idea when I installed a set of lowering springs in a Beaumont years ago and didn't need a compressor to do it. I was just barely able to force them into place with no compressor.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
Are you installing them the correct way with the lower control arm connected to the spindle and swinging in the inside end of the lower control arm into it's pocket? You need the bar as shown in the service manual, and the block of wood to stabilize the inside end of the lower control arm.
I think he could do that Clint, but the issue is a frame with basically Zero weight to it.
That being said, can you elaborate on that practice, do you have any images of doing it yourself? I'd like to try it.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
I don't see the F40 springs going in the bare even with the correct method. I did it with stock springs that had 1 coil removed and it was sketchy. I had a big block and trans in the frame as well as about an extra 200lbs piled on top of it. And just made it. If you had a loader handy and could hold the front of the frame down like Kevin says it would work. But for moving purposes while assembling the rest I would go with Carl's suggestion of cut down old springs for now. 2 coils should do it. And if you can heat and flatten the cut end to more resemble the stock end even better.
Are you installing them the correct way with the lower control arm connected to the spindle and swinging in the inside end of the lower control arm into it's pocket? You need the bar as shown in the service manual, and the block of wood to stabilize the inside end of the lower control arm.
I think he could do that Clint, but the issue is a frame with basically Zero weight to it.
That being said, can you elaborate on that practice, do you have any images of doing it yourself? I'd like to try it.
I did it on the bare chassis that sits under my Parisienne. But, I was at a buddies place and he put the bucket of his bobcat on the frame horns to help weigh it down.
cutting a roof off a four door is NOT a convertible.....
65 Parisienne convertible.one of 49 built for RHD export market,402BBC, T400, 2500 stally, posi rear, upgraded brakes with front discs, FUEL FAST efi custom built by me.
Rubber things like that were on the rear of my 63, the fronts had bolt on type- they keep the springs from collapsing I assumed, so added to ride height. I didnt need them when I replaced my old sagging front and rear springs with new Moog.
Glenn had an excellent spring compressor he got from Napa, worked excellent on the big front springs. Eliminated most of my fear of the compressor letting go at the wrong time. I bought one too.
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63 Parisienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC. 1963- Pontiac top selling car in Canada
Mahone Bay, NS Still not old enough to need an automatic
