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Post Info TOPIC: Trying to understand points


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Trying to understand points


As part of my continuous improvement of the White 427 car, I jumped on the OEM points for sale by a member.

But they are not the same as what was there.

014a.jpg

The all-in-one type is the same as a new-replacement set I already had on the shelf.

I want to use the OEM but there is no mounting bracket for the condenser, or even a bolt hole for the bracket.

I instead installed the new one-piece set of points.

They have really made a difference in the way the car runs.

Would the one-piece style be original to the 1969s ?



-- Edited by ABC123 on Tuesday 16th of July 2024 06:49:03 PM

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A Poncho Legend!

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The originals would have been 2 piece. That one piece one came much later.



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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles 

1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars (now converted to a "factory" 4 speed)

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There should be a screw hole in the breaker plate for the condenser bracket, as well as an alignment pin (or 2) to hold the bracket point the right direction.
I should have a bracket & screw here somewhere.
Plus, with the points & condenser, you can mount the RF Interference cover over them. I should have that too.

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Thanks Carl

I have been trying to find a picture of what the proper condenser mounting bracket looks like and how it attaches.

This rotor may not be original to the car.

F-engines have the bracket welded to the condenser.

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Here's the bracket for the condenser, as well as the RF shield.  The kind of rounded part of the forward part of the shield allows access for dwell adjustment.PXL_20240717_001258431.jpg

The slight indentation at the top of the bracket prevents the condenser from sliding out.  If I recall, this photo is kind of shows the bracket from the firewall side, it normally has the screw out towards the outside edge of the breaker plate.

PXL_20240717_001656121.jpg



-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Tuesday 16th of July 2024 07:25:11 PM

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Good old eBay,

best pick I can find.

Picture 4 of 8

I guess all I need now is a bracket and a flat head machine bolt biggrin



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seventy2plus2 wrote:

Here's the bracket for the condenser, as well as the RF shield.  The kind of rounded part of the forward part of the shield allows access for dwell adjustment.PXL_20240717_001258431.jpg

The slight indentation at the top of the bracket prevents the condenser from sliding out.  If I recall, this photo is kind of shows the bracket from the firewall side, it normally has the screw out towards the outside edge of the breaker plate.

PXL_20240717_001656121.jpg



-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Tuesday 16th of July 2024 07:25:11 PM


 That RF Shield must be very hard to find !



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ABC123 wrote:
seventy2plus2 wrote:

Here's the bracket for the condenser, as well as the RF shield.  The kind of rounded part of the forward part of the shield allows access for dwell adjustment.PXL_20240717_001258431.jpg

The slight indentation at the top of the bracket prevents the condenser from sliding out.  If I recall, this photo is kind of shows the bracket from the firewall side, it normally has the screw out towards the outside edge of the breaker plate.

PXL_20240717_001656121.jpg



-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Tuesday 16th of July 2024 07:25:11 PM


 That RF Shield must be very hard to find !


 Yup, I'm sure most got tossed during the first tune-up!!!



-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Tuesday 16th of July 2024 08:00:57 PM

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The rf shield was only used on cars with the windshield antenna.

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Prefectca wrote:

The rf shield was only used on cars with the windshield antenna.


 hmmm, I never knew that.



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It does make sense as the antenna would be so close to the distributor.

I found a bracket in the third box of the 3 NOS condensers.

This set may find its way onto my other engine despite the objections of all the MSD fans.



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Stopped in to see an engine guy about getting real GM exhaust manifold bolts and mentioned the points.

He asked me the dwell setting.

Well, I said, I had not set anything up because it ran so well wink

He lent me his Snap-on, made in Canada meter and said, "No more than 32 degrees".

002a.jpg

Cool old stuff !

005a.jpg

33 and change.

Dialed it back to 29 and quite the difference.

Smooth idle and acceleration.

Look at all the fun I was missing with Pertronix on the convertible biggrin



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I used to be able to eyeball my point setting when installing them. Double checked with Cadwell meter and was usually within a couple degrees. Spec is 28-32 degrees.

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I went with reproduction exhaust manifold bolts.

 

www.classicindustries.com/product/1970/chevrolet/impala/parts/14312.html

 



-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Thursday 18th of July 2024 09:27:25 PM

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I think I sense the coming of a points renaissance right here, right now.

I'm buying a dwell meter.



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ABC123 wrote:

Stopped in to see an engine guy about getting real GM exhaust manifold bolts and mentioned the points.

 


 I might have a set. Do you need the ones with the flanged head or are they the regular ones? (with the shallow thread of course because they are for exhaust)



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4SPEED427 wrote:
ABC123 wrote:

Stopped in to see an engine guy about getting real GM exhaust manifold bolts and mentioned the points.

 


 I might have a set. Do you need the ones with the flanged head or are they the regular ones? (with the shallow thread of course because they are for exhaust)


 They should be flanged head.



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Ok, I wasn't sure because at some point they changed from flanged to regular head.



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seventy2plus2 wrote:
4SPEED427 wrote:
ABC123 wrote:

Stopped in to see an engine guy about getting real GM exhaust manifold bolts and mentioned the points.

 


 I might have a set. Do you need the ones with the flanged head or are they the regular ones? (with the shallow thread of course because they are for exhaust)


 They should be flanged head.


 The white car has a combination of both. Strange but true.

I would like to use the flange bolts.



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Ok, I'll try to check late tonight when I get time.

 



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I recently bought a dwell meter for just this;
I have not previously EVER set dwell... just manually gapped points and called it a day.

Those RFI shields are a rare curiousity, because as I understood it that they were often tossed in the garbage with the first points change.

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unruhjonny wrote:


I have not previously EVER set dwell... just manually gapped points and called it a day.


 Interesting. And I have never gapped a set of V8 Chevy points, just slapped them in and set the dwell!



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interesting post, in fact i'm presently rebuilding a "w" motor for my 62 impala and will be using a point distributor. After my HEI died on me on a cruise and i had to get a tow home.the "cutter " module wire open- 

circuited (weakest link in a HEI) .you can't fix that on the side of the road ,where as points you can. I plan on using a MSD blaster 2 coil and set the points at 32 for best saturation. lol i am guilty of tossing those 

shields they were a pain.



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bob lewis


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4SPEED427 wrote:
unruhjonny wrote:


I have not previously EVER set dwell... just manually gapped points and called it a day.


 Interesting. And I have never gapped a set of V8 Chevy points, just slapped them in and set the dwell!


x 2. Using the dwell meter is definitely a more accurate (and easier) way to set the points. JMHO.



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