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Post Info TOPIC: The Gp will barely idle. Help!


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RE: The Gp will barely idle. Help!


Got the carb all buttoned up, put it back on and it started up right away...stalled and there's gas all over the place.

The fuel inlet valve is obvously not stopping the fuel when the bowl fills. I checked the float level and it was right on. But this kit came with a new type of inlet valve and seat...perhaps it's either installed wrong or it just doesn't seal.

So off comes the top again.cry

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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT. 
 


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Good Info,
Believe it or not but the Malibu is standing and I suspect there is water in my fuel tank. Need to strip and check the whole fuel system! Maybe the electrical system as well! 1965 Coil stil in!

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Ah yes! I remember it well!!! (With Pictures)

  1. 1965 Malibu 4dr Sedan L6 (Original)
  2. 1975 Chevrolet Kommando 305 (Monaro Clone)
  3. 2000 Peugeot 406 2.0L
  4. 1996 VW Golf Chico


Poncho Master!

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cdnpont wrote:

Got the carb all buttoned up, put it back on and it started up right away...stalled and there's gas all over the place.

The fuel inlet valve is obvously not stopping the fuel when the bowl fills. I checked the float level and it was right on. But this kit came with a new type of inlet valve and seat...perhaps it's either installed wrong or it just doesn't seal.

So off comes the top again.cry



Sorry to hear this Mark.  On the other hand, this will likely teach us all a little more about a Q-jet.  Thanks for sharing.

 



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Mission accomplished!

Took the carb off, opened it up and put the old needle and seat back in (it wasn't flooding before).Fired right up, 1 1/4 turns initial on the idle screws and it's idling nice. Stabbing the throttle, it feels way more responsive. I'd like to know why that new needle and seat wouldn't work though. 

On a endnote, anyone thats done a rebuild on any carb, or having some mechanical knowledge can do this one easily, it's really quite simple the Qj. It's not to be feared. But take lots of shots of the linkages!

On a sour note, I've discovered the egr or pcv passages in the intake are completely plugged. Can't be good, but need I worry?

Cheers, Mark

4503135577_927ae93d41.jpg
The black on the intake is years of gas weeping down over time.



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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT. 
 


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Took it out for a drive. Huge improvement. Way smoother and has some snap to it now. It'll even spin a tire from a stop!

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Good news Mark! You saved a pile of money doing it yourself.



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cdnpont wrote:

 

Mission accomplished!

Took the carb off, opened it up and put the old needle and seat back in (it wasn't flooding before).Fired right up, 1 1/4 turns initial on the idle screws and it's idling nice. Stabbing the throttle, it feels way more responsive. I'd like to know why that new needle and seat wouldn't work though. 

On a endnote, anyone thats done a rebuild on any carb, or having some mechanical knowledge can do this one easily, it's really quite simple the Qj. It's not to be feared. But take lots of shots of the linkages!

On a sour note, I've discovered the egr or pcv passages in the intake are completely plugged. Can't be good, but need I worry?

Cheers, Mark


 

I love doing the Q-jets... Have done lots over my time with GM and on my own.

 Since there is no actual pcv as such or an egr, the cross over passage you are talking about is for warming up the base area of the carb done usually by the heat riser on the right manifold.
 When the engine is cold, the riser is closed forcing exhaust to flow from the right head over to the left via the cross over in the intake. When the bi-metal spring warms up on the riser, the valve opens and it is exhaust as usual......

 Is it a problem?? If you wait for a few minutes to let the engine semi warm up if it is colder out or if you do not drive it in the winter, (which you will not), not a problem at all!!!


 



-- Edited by 67Poncho on Thursday 8th of April 2010 06:53:52 PM

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Vincent Jr.



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this is makeing me really consider rebuilding and putting on my q-jet!! It is always better and rewarding when you do it yourself, good job.   Does anybody know what type of 4 barrel manifold will bolt up to the 59, 283? I would love to get one with the oil fill tube (that way i also dont have to change out my valve covers, i like the original ones) but will any old one work, or do i have to get a specific year and or casting number? This would be nicer with a four i think!?

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Thats a decent looking SB Trevor. No expert, but I'll bet any 4 barrel SB manifold through '67 would work.

697850?AWSAccessKeyId=1XXJBWHKN0QBQS6TGPG2&Expires=1271894400&Signature=26aZDC2pg9y%2BY7TkGbZHn3WSmME%3D 

Thanks for the info on the crossover Vincent. The car never seems to have any trouble getting going, even when the temp is hovering around freezing. It would be nice to make it right, but as is my destiny, it would lead to doing everything. I'd like to avoid it.
 So those passages lead into the exhaust ports? When it crosses over, it goes from the heat riser side, through the manifolt then to and out.... the left head exhaust port?

Cheers, Mark 

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Yes, the purpose of the heat riser is to "chase" the exhaust across the intake under the carb to warm up the choke coil. Racers block that off anyway because it heats the fuel in the carb making it less efficient.

You don't have to take it apart and clean it. However, if it is blocked pretty much complete, I would wire the heat riser open so the passenger side exhaust has a place to go!

Great work on the carb. They are not that complicated, are they. Follow instructions, measure the float level carefully and take your time!

Way to go!

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1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars



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67Poncho wrote:

cdnpont wrote:

 

Mission accomplished!

Took the carb off, opened it up and put the old needle and seat back in (it wasn't flooding before).Fired right up, 1 1/4 turns initial on the idle screws and it's idling nice. Stabbing the throttle, it feels way more responsive. I'd like to know why that new needle and seat wouldn't work though. 

On a endnote, anyone thats done a rebuild on any carb, or having some mechanical knowledge can do this one easily, it's really quite simple the Qj. It's not to be feared. But take lots of shots of the linkages!

On a sour note, I've discovered the egr or pcv passages in the intake are completely plugged. Can't be good, but need I worry?

Cheers, Mark


 

I love doing the Q-jets... Have done lots over my time with GM and on my own.

 Since there is no actual pcv as such or an egr, the cross over passage you are talking about is for warming up the base area of the carb done usually by the heat riser on the right manifold.
 When the engine is cold, the riser is closed forcing exhaust to flow from the right head over to the left via the cross over in the intake. When the bi-metal spring warms up on the riser, the valve opens and it is exhaust as usual......

 Is it a problem?? If you wait for a few minutes to let the engine semi warm up if it is colder out or if you do not drive it in the winter, (which you will not), not a problem at all!!!


 



-- Edited by 67Poncho on Thursday 8th of April 2010 06:53:52 PM

Like you guys I really like the Q-jet. It performs well and I can repair it myself. Over the years I've bought up lots of them - just in case ...

 



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How much better could it ever be?
I mean, tiny primarys for economy and good throttle response, and set up correctly, secondarys that only ever open as much as needed. No over carbing.

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cdnpont wrote:
 So those passages lead into the exhaust ports? When it crosses over, it goes from the heat riser side, through the manifold then to and out.... the left head exhaust port?

Cheers, Mark 

 That's correct! Like C1 said, tie the E.F.E. (heat riser) valve open if you suspect the crossover is plugged. But since you have duals on it now, and if you have the valve removed, leave it be!!!!!!

 



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Vincent Jr.



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No duals yet, but now I know I can remove the riser when the shop does them.

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Or leave it in there if they bend the pipe to factory specs so it fits right. If it stays in, you can just remove the flapper.

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Aftermarket intake manifolds often have the heat riser passage blocked right off. You don't need to worry about anything except that your carb will likely stay cooler and your performance will be improved. Most intake gasket kits come with optional blockoff plates so you can limit the amount of heat getting to the carb. From a performance perspective, this is a good thing that your passages are blocked.

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67SD396 wrote:

Aftermarket intake manifolds often have the heat riser passage blocked right off. You don't need to worry about anything except that your carb will likely stay cooler and your performance will be improved. Most intake gasket kits come with optional blockoff plates so you can limit the amount of heat getting to the carb. From a performance perspective, this is a good thing that your passages are blocked.



It amazes me that they don't include instructions in those kits that they are only to be used with headers or the heat riser removed. Where is the passenger side exhaust supposed to go otherwise?confuse

 



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1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars

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