This year, in the late spring or so, this below...
Will replace this...
Crazy as it might seem to mess with original, this little 327 although running better than it probably ever has in it's life needs some work. It has a pretty good main seal leak, and the valve seals are toast. And it all round looks pretty darn ugly. The engine compartment looks tired as well. Time for a freshening up.
I'll pull it, freshen the bay, install the HO350 then eventually go through the 327 and re-install it when done.
A couple of questions;
The TH400 seems good and strong, I'd like to leave it in, but is it better to remove and install the motor attached to it or not ? Will I have the clearance at the rad support for it to come out together?
Will the TH400 untouched be fine, will the Uj's be ok?
Do you reccomend a shift kit be installed?
Will my stock Rad be up to the heat of the new 350?
Any opinions or advice welcome here.
Cheers, Mark
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
This year, in the late spring or so, this below...
Crazy as it might seem to mess with original, this little 327 although running better than it probably ever has in it's life needs some work. It has a pretty good main seal leak, and the valve seals are toast. And it all round looks pretty darn ugly. The engine compartment looks tired as well. Time for a freshening up.
I'll pull it, freshen the bay, install the HO350 then eventually go through the 327 and re-install it when done.
A couple of questions;
The TH400 seems good and strong, I'd like to leave it in, but is it better to remove and install the motor attached to it or not ?
I would leave the trans in. The B body setup is such that there is pretty decent room to work around the engine/trans combo.
Will I have the clearance at the rad support for it to come out together?
Yes, easily if you do decided to pull it as a unit. I've done it many times, even with a big block.
Will the TH400 untouched be fine, will the Uj's be ok?
I would leave the 400 as is if it works ok. I am pretty sure the U joints are the same on TH400 regardless of whether or not it was originally small or big block in front of it. As long as you check them and they are in good shape, drive it like a Commie!!!
Do you reccomend a shift kit be installed?
I've had them with and without and prefer with but they shift pretty hard into second gear under full throttle even when stock.
Will my stock Rad be up to the heat of the new 350?
I would think so as long as it's in good shape now.
Any opinions or advice welcome here.
Cheers, Mark
-- Edited by Carl Stevenson on Monday 3rd of January 2011 11:16:59 PM
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
Call me silly but I would pull the rad as to not damage it and give it a paint job, pull the motor attach to the trans and install the trans on the new motor, reinstall the new assembly. Less under the car working is better. Don't forget to plug the trans with a spare yoke to reduce the mess. With the trans out open up the pan and look for metal bits and install a new filter. The TH 400's are pretty tuff so unless it's doing something weird when it shifts leave it.
I'm going to pull my engine with the trans. I'm going to pull the rad for extra clearance. I guess I better get cracking eh Mark since I have your engine crane!
I have pulled lots of engines in my time with trany and with out. If you want to clean up the trany pull with , if not, I find it more work to pull with the trany. A lot less work to leave it.
Just make sure you have the torque converter fully engaged in the pump when you reinstall the engine. Common mistake and you won't get a second chance.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
I'd say pull the tranny with the engine. You can buy a plug for the tailshaft at Princess Auto, they're like $5. Pull the tranny coolant lines out before pulling the engine / trans combo.
While out, change both the engine mounts and trans mount with new ones. If you use one of the engine tilting things connected to your cherry picker, you can almost do it as a one man job. (removal can easily be done by one person, best to have 2 people when putting it back in) The engine tilting thing is one of the best inventions ever.
It's just easier to mate the engine & trans outside the car (and ensure the torque converter is engaged). While it won't look like it, the engine / trans combo will slide right in.
I'm about to pull the 305 out of the 52. coming out as a unit!!! Have "donated " the engine to my "machine shop" for a core & donated the trans [turbo 350] to local trans shop. Hope maybe they will 'return" a favor later???? I find it's difficult to "align" the engine with the trans. when putting in back in, alot of wiggleing & shaken going on!!!! Got to have the angles just right or "no Go"
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Some times I wake up GRUMPY, but today I let her sleep in !!!!!!!!BLACKSTOCK Ont.
A word of advice on the TH400. I would run some synthetic Royal Purple trans fluid in it. That will lower the trans temp and extend the life of it. As this is going back in the 67 Parisienne Mark, I wouldn't put a shift kit in it. Just make sure your U-J's are greased up good with no play in the needle bearings and it should be good. If your worried about overheating maybe switch to an electric fan set up after you flush and paint the rad. It may not look stock but it will keep it cooler and free up a few horsepower.
I'm about to pull the 305 out of the 52. coming out as a unit!!! Have "donated " the engine to my "machine shop" for a core & donated the trans [turbo 350] to local trans shop. Hope maybe they will 'return" a favor later???? I find it's difficult to "align" the engine with the trans. when putting in back in, alot of wiggleing & shaken going on!!!! Got to have the angles just right or "no Go"
TA DAA!! Out in one piece!!!
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Some times I wake up GRUMPY, but today I let her sleep in !!!!!!!!BLACKSTOCK Ont.
I'm in the middle of freshening up my engine right now gaskets and paint cheap rebuild lol but ill be putting my engine back in in a couple of weeks say 6 but im putting mine together without a body on top lol the easy way mine came out real nice without a front end.... remember to get some of those fender mats on could make a costly repair
-- Edited by jonathanD on Thursday 6th of January 2011 07:19:08 PM
-- Edited by jonathanD on Thursday 6th of January 2011 07:19:51 PM
I'll pull it all as one. Rad out. I have a hoist and tilter mechanism. Buy a princess auto tail plug first! Good tip Clint! Clean up the case of the TH400, drop the pan, new filter only, no messing with the internals. Royal purple, probably priced like liquid gold...Earl?
Understand completly the need to fully engage the converter before pulling the two halves together Carl, or...snap!
Is it a big deal to change the converter seal, is it in the pump body? Should probably look at a new tailshaft yoke seal as well.
I'll probably have my local rad shop look at the rad, possibly clean it out? I'll be adding a small aux trans cooler to the cooling loop (after rad). Adapting a fan shroud would be nice too, but it would likely involve taking out the rad spacer. Any thoughts on this?
Back in it'll have the alt on the opposite side, and its a internally regulated 12SI, so I'll bypass the regulator and go with a main powerpoint, add some headlight relays to brighten things up at the same time.
And that's cheating Johnathan having no front clip on! But good reminder about the fender mats...where can I get a pair? I never seem to see any for sale anymore. Question is... Will Todd ever offer them for sale with a Cp logo?
Cheers, Mark
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
i bought a set of nice pontiac fender covers last fall at the barrie flea market. think they were about $20. each. they have a really big insinia on them too.
I see a few of the comments mention must take radiator out. I think that's obvious, the engine will never come out with the radiator in, and even if it could there's a lot of risk of damaging the radiator if it was left in.
I think the point was that the engine / trans combo will clear the radiator support, but not by much.
