You're aiming in the right direction, just off a bit.   You've got 2 ports on the water pump, and 2 ports on the intake.  As you have the right hand alternator, your intake should have a port on top between the first 2 intake manifold bolts, but you don't but that's ok.  It looks like you're using the intake manifold port that is partly obstructed by the upper alternator bracket.

So, there should be a 3/4" bypass hose from the intake (the left port where you have a 90 degree elbow) to the left hand water pump port.  

Re heater hoses, there should be a 3/4" heater hose from the right hand port of the water pump to the heater core, and a 5/8" heater hose from the right hand intake port (the one partly obstructed by the upper alternator bracket) to the heater core.

Here's a photo of my 70 big block, it should point you in the right direction:

Thanks guys, I shall check it out and thanks for the bolt pickups, much appreciated!

Woo... 8c lol!! We're in shorts at +8! Just kidding. It's nice to have some heat when it gets chilly. Allows you to run into the fall with a window down.

Could be wrong, but I'd think the valve would be before the core, no?, if just to keep the pump pressure off of it when closed. But Why the valve anyways? Hooked to the temp control on the dash? 

We had real povo options in our cars. we only ever had underdash ac if you wanted ac. This is really just a heater demister. We have a control which operates a flap to direct air to cabin, dumps at floor from behind dash, or to two pipes going to vents in the dash for demist. Another control which operates the amount the valve opens to adjust the amount of hot water going through the heater core to allow a primitive temperature control. Both use cables..

so which hose has the pressure? From the pump? The idea is to stop the flow of heated water to the core so the the cabin doesn't get heat from the core when it's stinking hot in summer. It could be the incorrect valve even. Maybe it should be a t valve which bypasses the core...although if it was that I don't have enough inlets back to the motor....

-- Edited by koolconvertible on Saturday 24th of February 2018 04:04:12 PM

-- Edited by koolconvertible on Saturday 24th of February 2018 04:31:24 PM

cdnpont wrote:

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I believe the pump hose to the core is the feed. The bigger hose.

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I think this is correct.  What is the diameter of the lines on the shut off valve?   I expect they should be 3/4" to go into the 3/4" heater hose.

seventy2plus2 wrote:

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I noticed something else in your photo. The stud for the upper alternator bracket looks like it's installed after the bracket, and is holding the bracket down. The stud should be installed with the hex head holding the intake down, the bracket then goes onto the threaded portion above the hex head, and the nut then holds down the bracket.

There were a couple different studs used, some with a 5/16" threaded portion extending up, and some with a 3/8" threaded portion extending up. For this alternator bracket, it looks like the 5/16" type, but should be a 3/8" type.

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 Wok, tried changing the bolt as suggested but i can't get the bolt into the waterpump to line up so i can put it in.....

If hoses are all the same 3/4" size, then yes I'd put your shut-off valve inline from the water pump to the heater core.

RE moving your heater hose return to the left side of the intake, I don't see any reason why not to. That also goes for moving your temperature sensor to the front side of the intake.

Finally, I feared moving the intake stud may not work. It should, but stranger things have happened. I bought reproduction alternator brackets, and there was just no way I could get the upper bracket to line up properly, I think I had the same problem you did. That bracket found it's way into the scrap metal bin.