i bought a lordco white box clutch i guess it was there home brand and it exploded in kamloops be had 12 k on it had to drive all the way back to van isle no clutch. installed a LUC clutch working ok then the prices go up up up

I installed a LUC clutch kit in my car originally and it had a chatter right from the start, waited a bit thought maybe it would go away after break in period, it did not. I figured it might be a warped flywheel or oil on disk, so pulled engine, disk looked good. Had the flywheel resurfaced and put it all together again and it still studdered when taking off from a stand still. My engine builder recommended a Rhinopac clutch, he said they are quite a durable product. The parts store I deal with ordered it in from Calgary. I brought the old clutch in and it turned out to be a warped pressure plate. I have never had a problem in the past with LUC clutchs but was willing to try something new. I will let you all know how this clutch works out for me.

i cant tell you yet but my 69 is havin a center force clutch and pp ! hopefully this summer ! i was told its very good 

 

seventy2plus2 wrote:

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I see a couple of you guys listed a LUC clutch. Could you mean LUK?

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 Canadian slang..everyone refers to Luc...as sounds like luke from I recall.

It is LUK and the first time I typed it I spelt it correct but double guessed myself after looking at previous post and changed it.   The next time I typed it again I did it correctly but changed it again after looking back at what I typed the first time. Funny how the mind works. 

It is a good brand and I have used them many times in my trucks over the years but I think it may have been a one off bad one, its a lot of work changing out a clutch. And also my builder suggested trying the Rhinpac.

I'm debating using a LUK as well and now I'm nervous. I've sold some of them and always had success with them, so I'm little bit leery. Easy to take apart and change if it's bad though I guess.

I used the same kit (LUK 04-003), that CDN PONT has linked / pictured, in my '59 261 Laurentian.

I'm sure the kit has a 10" clutch though. It replaced my original 9.5" clutch and fit just fine.

No issues at all with it after a year now, granted only a few hundred miles.

 

RGM

 

cdnpont wrote:

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seventy2plus2 wrote:

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I'm sure you know this, but you'll need the appropriate nose on your starter to go with the smaller flywheel. Also, the nose should be cast iron, not aluminum.

When I had the starter rebuilt for my 70 LS6 M20, the local rebuilder had a cast iron nose in their collection of spare parts. It used a different length bolt to mount to the block, but they were able to source them for me through GM.

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I know about the different bolt patterns, but never knew of the need for a iron nose.

Why cast iron over aluminum?

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I just talked to my rebuilder, cast iron was utilized for big blocks with the large flywheel, backed by a standard transmission as the cast iron was less prone to flex.    Big block automatics got the aluminum nose.      

Cast iron was not used for small flywheel - so ignore that point.

And do NOT be tempted to use a normal bolt the correct length for your application. That is asking for a noisy starter, and mechanical trouble down the road. Use the correct starter bolt that is knurled where it fits in to the block.

When you hear someone with a noisy starter on a GM, it may be due to the wrong bolts.

And ALWAYS use the brace from the starter to the block. If you ever watch a starter crank a Chevy engine with no brace on the starter, you'll understand why.

You'd be amazed how many times I've seen it tried over the years!

Surely you must have been to a car show and heard someone crank up a Chevy that had either the wrong bolts, no brace, or both. And sometimes the same sound from a started that is shimmed wrong. The noise just cuts right through you it's so harsh. The ring gears and starter drives don't last long when they sound that way.

good points guys and you can always pay for a gm clutch