I would think all the way until the one piece rear seal which was 1986 I believe?

I can't vouch for the 235/261's though.

To add to the post, here's an image of the finished product in car, trimmed out in a Nova boot and trim ring. Carl actually supplied the ring, thanks Carl!

I feel that overall it's a workable facsimile of a 65-66 bench boot and ring. Certainly cheap and easy enough to to come by. It'll never fool anyone, but for a car of this level, I'd say it's just fine don't you think?

 

70 SS ACADIAN wrote:

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now your going to want to paint the car

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 I hope he doesn't, it's super cool exactly as it is now.

 

Exactly. I've seen high end stuff with a laughably incorrect shifter setup. At least I spent the time to find the correct lever (Carl again!), and it even came with some patina to help it all blend in with the look.

And I have to say, with the time spent on setting and shimming the muncie shifter up, it actually shifts beautifully. I'll admit, I did lube it when the boot was off and it did smooth it out. Probably once every 2 years it needs a lube?

One thing I was thinking as I was reading this and other 4 speed conversion threads tonight. If anyone is doing this conversion, and you're converting from a Turbo 400 to a Muncie 4 speed, make sure you remember to slide the crossmember forward to the front set of mounting tabs where the crossmember meets the frame. I read a thread on a different site where the person was having trouble getting things to fit and couldn't figure out why. It turned out the issue was he was trying to mount the Muncie too far back because the crossmember was still mounted in the TH400 location on the frame.

need to go back through this thread but for now can someone tell me if I can replace just the peddles or do I have to replace the support too to add the clutch peddle

-- Edited by 65 SD L79 on Tuesday 14th of March 2023 04:25:49 PM

Fwiw, I found this image of a taped template I used for the initial 4 speed floor cut. I had good luck with it, and I think it would accommodate the factory hump. I made my own, and it worked fine. In fact, after the insulation and carpet, you'd never know.

To be safe, start out small inside the purple line, and open it up as required.

 

No probs Kevin. But just to be sure, it's really just my interpretation of where the rough opening should go. Understand I had no factory hump to go on.

But it should be fine if kept smallish. Enlarge as required.

 

The 100% best way to center the hump for mounting, is to have the trans and shifter in place when you set it down (with boot) on the tunnel.

I just sort of fabbed up my own hump as I went along. Bending, tacking, adding metal, making sure the boot would sit well as I went, until it was all covered up. I then took it off, welded and cleaned it it up...and it worked!

 

 

 

It's a 1MB image. so it should copy to file and print large. Give it a shot.

Yeah, that looks a little too far forward Carl. Good catch. I think the positioning is of the "general area" type of manufacture wasn't it then. And it looks to be kind of forgiving anyways.

When I mounted my bracket, I actually went to the trouble to attach an empty M21 case with a bellhousing to the crossmember, and hang it by a ratchet strap on a wire V centered on the firewall. I remember asking you to let me know as to where the transmission mount bolts ended up sitting in the crossmember rest slots. You looked under your 66 on the lift and told me they seemed to be about 1/2 way, so thats what I went with. Z bar ended up sitting perfect.